Fixed Vault Cargo Divider replacements being sent by Tesla

[jf64k]

I used the @aeroguy solution for the vault divider issue:

https://www.cybertruckownersclub.co...rgo-divider-fitment-issues.19577/#post-354666

Worked perfect.

I had the divider installed in it’s tightest spot, loosened the six (6) bolts on either side (four [4] on the L-tracks and the two [2] side panel d-rings). I then used a soft dead blow hammer to nudge everything a bit higher by gently smacking the divider “up”. Visually, the L-track looked to be in the same position, but I could immediately tell that it loosened up. It was so much easier to disengage.

After that, I tried the divider in the other spots. Fits and locks in perfectly now. I tightened the L-track bolts with the divider installed right next to them to keep things high and level.

Easy and quick!!

Thanks @aeroguy !!

 

[Marc Montgomery]

Here are more photos as requested.

Remove the nut with a 5/16" socket. Note the round spacer and spring position on the threaded shaft. The plastic guides are shown as originally positioned. Finally the plastic guides are removed. Make sure to secure the nut at the same depth as before. Without the plastic guides, it will rattle a bit until fully mounted and secure. Save the plastic guides if you need to restore the Vault Cargo Divider to original condition.

I plan to add a thin protective tape to the underside of Vault Cargo Divider to decrease scratches.

Worked beautifully for me as well. Put one side into L-track, push handle down, then tap other side in with my hand. Clicked in nicely. Solid.

 

[Mattkalin]

Here are more photos as requested.

Remove the nut with a 5/16" socket. Note the round spacer and spring position on the threaded shaft. The plastic guides are shown as originally positioned. Finally the plastic guides are removed. Make sure to secure the nut at the same depth as before. Without the plastic guides, it will rattle a bit until fully mounted and secure. Save the plastic guides if you need to restore the Vault Cargo Divider to original condition.

I plan to add a thin protective tape to the underside of Vault Cargo Divider to decrease scratches.

Just did this and fixed my Bed Divider!! This is the way!! Thank you soo much!

 

[Jack27]

This is why I love this place! This fixed mine ? Thank you.

 

[rgr331]

Ok my job is to try and help everyone out here I decided to dive into this today because by brand new vault divider just arrived from Tesla today. (Ordered last week so I assume it is a new one, new style, whatever). Arrived fine in the box and like others no instructions but how hard can it be right? I'd read about the problems here where it would fit in the back part of the bed but not in front of the lower cargo hatch. Well when I tried mine, I was getting much the same result. I could make it fit but geez it was really tight and didn't fit as easily as it did in the rear section. So let's see some pics in get into what I did.

Here is the vault divider easily installed over the top of the hatch, no issues, went in like a charm. When I tried it forward of the divider, again, not so great. So let's move on and remove some bolts shall we. First off you are going to need a 10mm hex bit. I just happened to have one from doing brake work on another car where the caliper bolts used 10mm hex so I didn't need to make a run to the hardware store. You might.

I proceeded to use the 10mm hex and my ratchet to remove the 10 bolts, 4 of which were through D-Rings and 6 just into the bed itself and covered by plastic covers. I used one of those plastic trim removal tools to pop those off and expose the bolts. If you look carefully in the above picture you will see metal rings in each of the holes, those rings are different depending upon where the hole is located, some sit flush with the bed, some protrude through it and need to fit into circles below. Let's remove this cover (easiest to lift at a corner) and see what is underneath shall we?

Well look at that, an air tank, a couple of beastly electric motors, wiring, tubing, casting, etc. etc. Looking at the holes underneath you will see some have multiple stage cut outs, larger circle with smaller circle towards the middle, some do not. What I was looking for was some sort of adjustment, anything down here that could be moved, removed, adjusted, etc. etc. to free up more space. Nope, nothing, nada, your bed should look like this and short of cutting metal you aren't going to magically free up space here. However, there is one item that I think may be causing some people an issue, so let's look at some close up photos to show you what I mean:

Here is one of those metal rings at one of the holes. Notice how the metal ring / collar protrudes through the bottom of the floor panel? As I mentioned, some positions are like this, and some are flush. You cannot push these upwards as they would then stick out of the top of the bed, but if they are supposed to stick out (which I believe they are) then they have to go somewhere right? Let's look at the next photo to see where they go:

Well what do we have here? This is where the bolt goes, but look at the sub structure under the bed, there is a larger cutout hole with a smaller cutout hole somewhat off center. Guess where that ring/collar from the prior photo is supposed to go? At first I thought the center smaller hole, but it doesn't go all the way down in that hole because the diameter is larger. Is it supposed to go in the hole and those holes aren't cut large enough? I do not know. At a minimum the collar needs to go down in the larger hole and maybe in some installations the collars aren't even in the larger hole but resting on the lip of the larger hole, without examining a lot of installs it is hard to say. There may be as much as 1/8" of space available here if you could get the collar / ring to sit down inside that smaller hole somehow (likely widening the hole to accommodate) Oddly enough there doesn't seem to be much play here, not a lot of room for error or moving things around. I did my best to seat the rings that protruded and far down as I could, making sure all of them were at least inside the big holes before inserting the bolts and tightening down with my ratchet and hex bit.

Once I did this I then test fit the divider again behind the hatch and it fit better, not perfect, it still took a little bit of pressing down on the outside pieces at the side track but they popped into place pretty easily, at least better than they did before and good enough for me to be happy with the fit as compared to before I adjusted the bed.

I cannot guarantee this will work for you, but it did make a small difference for me, and at least enough difference for me to be able to put the divider in without forcing it or fear of breaking something. If anyone tries this procedure and somehow makes the holes wider or the rings fit deeper please share with everyone. I simply did the process or removal, reposition and re-install as I was short on time. But hey at least I snapped these pictures and shared! Enjoy!

This worked for me. All I did was remove the bolts, lift the cover and look under. Set the cover back in place. Then install the cargo divider while standing on the cover. The cargo divider went in easily. Then I re-installed the bolts.

 

[TTH]

Here are more photos as requested.

Remove the nut with a 5/16" socket. Note the round spacer and spring position on the threaded shaft. The plastic guides are shown as originally positioned. Finally the plastic guides are removed. Make sure to secure the nut at the same depth as before. Without the plastic guides, it will rattle a bit until fully mounted and secure. Save the plastic guides if you need to restore the Vault Cargo Divider to original condition.

I plan to add a thin protective tape to the underside of Vault Cargo Divider to decrease scratches.

 

[TTH]

This fixed mine! Thank you!

 

[WenssCT88]

Having tried most of the things in this thread, can confirm the fastest, easiest and best solution is to just use a dremel to file down the top 1/3 of the two little round nubs that stick out on each end of the locking mechanism. Without having to disassemble/unscrew or pound on anything else, this will allow the divider to lock in place in any position with a bed liner and/or any slight deviations in bed position.

It took me about 10 mins to grind the top part of the rubber nubs. May have been able to use a utility knife as an alternative option. Now my divider fits easily and securely anywhere in the bed with a bed liner in place. Perfect solution ??

 

[cyberHoward]

Having tried most of the things in this thread, can confirm the fastest, easiest and best solution is to just use a dremel to file down the top 1/3 of the two little round nubs that stick out on each end of the locking mechanism. Without having to disassemble/unscrew or pound on anything else, this will allow the divider to lock in place in any position with a bed liner and/or any slight deviations in bed position.

It took me about 10 mins to grind the top part of the rubber nubs. May have been able to use a utility knife as an alternative option. Now my divider fits easily and securely anywhere in the bed with a bed liner in place. Perfect solution ??

I actually plan on grinding down the feet flatter and the inside edge to have it fit with my liner. Without the liner, I can pretty much fit my divider anywhere, which is shocking considering how many people have problems. I would think this might be better then grinding the locking mechanism, but I am not sure how well it will work to grind the feet.

Here is the liner I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CX8ZXSHM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[JesseDGreat]

Having tried most of the things in this thread, can confirm the fastest, easiest and best solution is to just use a dremel to file down the top 1/3 of the two little round nubs that stick out on each end of the locking mechanism. Without having to disassemble/unscrew or pound on anything else, this will allow the divider to lock in place in any position with a bed liner and/or any slight deviations in bed position.

It took me about 10 mins to grind the top part of the rubber nubs. May have been able to use a utility knife as an alternative option. Now my divider fits easily and securely anywhere in the bed with a bed liner in place. Perfect solution ??

Any chance you have some pictures/videos?

 

[WenssCT88]

Grind the top off and they fit just fine.

I did the same as this person except I didn’t have to grind them down quite as far since I rounded off the top a bit instead of grinding it flat. Stopped grinding a little after I hit metal then rounded the top edge of the rubber to match the normal circular shape. Fast and easy with a dremel. Divider still locks into place very securely and now works everywhere in the bed even with a pretty thick bed liner in place.

I really liked that I didn’t have to mess with or modify the truck, the locking mechanism or the bed liner. And best of all when the divider is installed you can’t see this part anyways so cosmetically it looks perfect.

 

[WenssCT88]

I actually plan on grinding down the feet flatter and the inside edge to have it fit with my liner. Without the liner, I can pretty much fit my divider anywhere, which is shocking considering how many people have problems. I would think this might be better then grinding the locking mechanism, but I am not sure how well it will work to grind the feet.

Here is the liner I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CX8ZXSHM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Flatter feet won’t work with bed liner, at least in my case, as the bottom metal part of the divider still bottoms out on the liner.

Grinding down the little rubber parts made it fit everywhere with bed liner and without any modification to truck or feet of divider.