Confused with charging AMPS

[bdesign]

@bdesign - This is exactly what happened to my CT - would not go above 24amps. So made appointed with SC - they said most likely PCS. And a week or so later, the errors started popping up and stopped charging in the mid 70% range. Just had it changed.

Here is the work that was done on mine and this thread is full of similar issue:

https://www.cybertruckownersclub.co...alfunction-failure.52546/page-8#post-30741423

Sounds identical

I charged at home last night 12+ hours and got to 77%.

This video might be of interest.

Plugged in and not charging, app displays 48A. Start charging and it drops to 24A.

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[mongo]

Sounds identical

I charged at home last night 12+ hours and got to 77%.

This video might be of interest.

Plugged in and not charging, app displays 48A. Start charging and it drops to 24A.

If you hold the button on the charge handle, the wall connector lights should indicate its configuration. 5 green indicates 48A (which it's likely set to). 2 green is 24A.

 

[Jhodgesatmb]

What "we" are you referring to?
The OP has three phase 208Y/120 at their office . Large condos apartments frequently have this setup also.

I am not an electrician but looked it up when my neighbor had his charging problem. At that time I read that residential service is single phase. Sorry for my ignorance.

 

[eswimm]

I am not an electrician but looked it up when my neighbor had his charging problem. At that time I read that residential service is single phase. Sorry for my ignorance.

Most publicly available level 2 charging (parking garage, business, etc) will be 208V because commercial 3 phase power is 120/208V, unlike residential split phase 120/240V.

 

[bdesign]

If you hold the button on the charge handle, the wall connector lights should indicate its configuration. 5 green indicates 48A (which it's likely set to). 2 green is 24A.

Yup
Checked it - I get all 5 lights

 

[HaulingAss]

Plugged in and not charging, app displays 48A. Start charging and it drops to 24A.

Has it given you any warnings about excessive voltage sag detected? The max amperage available will be reduced for safety reason if the voltage sags too much when trying to ramp up to 48 amps. I believe that is the reason it takes a few seconds to ramp up, so it has time to measure voltage drop as it ramps higher. If so, you need to check the wiring between the Wall Connector and the breaker.

 

[bdesign]

Has it given you any warnings about excessive voltage sag detected? The max amperage available will be reduced for safety reason if the voltage sags too much when trying to ramp up to 48 amps. I believe that is the reason it takes a few seconds to ramp up, so it has time to measure voltage drop as it ramps higher. If so, you need to check the wiring between the Wall Connector and the breaker.

Nope, no errors at home or work

 

[Puhiniho]

OP, what has Tesla said? I get you want to ask the public but probably makes sense to scheduled a SC visit. They may be able to remotely determine and assess issue. And then let us all know the fix they did.

Also may want to check a friend that has a J1772 charger (greater than 24a) to rule that configuration out. Good luck!

 

[mongo]

Yup
Checked it - I get all 5 lights

So it's set to 48A

Nope, no errors at home or work

And the video shows 235V at 24A, which is fine.

So all signs point to the PCS.

 

[bdesign]

OP, what has Tesla said? I get you want to ask the public but probably makes sense to scheduled a SC visit. They may be able to remotely determine and assess issue. And then let us all know the fix they did.

Also may want to check a friend that has a J1772 charger (greater than 24a) to rule that configuration out. Good luck!

I made an appointment at the SC.

Unfortunately, it’s not until 02/09

I’ll definitely post updates as things progress

 

[JimBuck333]

Probably unrelated to your issue, but to keep your expectations in line with "the rules" and what a Tesla Wall Connector will probably allow: "For a 60-amp breaker, the maximum continuous current (running 3+ hours) is 48 amps, based on the National Electrical Code (NEC) 80% rule (60A x 0.80) for safety, requiring conductors rated for at least 125% of the load, often meaning #4 AWG copper wire."

(As a further example, we can do 40 amps with our 50 amp breaker, which is 8 amps better than when we used just the mobile charge connector, both at 220v. (At 25% upgrade by going to the Universal Wall Connector, which isn't a huge improvement, but it is a decent improvement.))

 

[smcnaughton829]

My truck has done this a few times. But it’s normal for it. Cold weather doesn’t allow it to charge at max 48 amps. It’s been low teens at night the past few days and it’s getting max 24 amps. This goes for all my other cars as well. When it warms up some I get 48 amps.
I have 3 WC all installed for more than 4 years. This happens to me every year when the temperature drops to low teens at night.
Do you park your truck in doors? Try doing max defrost for about a half hour to warm the battery then try to change it and see if you still are getting 24 amps. If you don’t want to max defrost you can always Navigate to a supercharger for a half hour while driving to work or home and then plug it in.
Cold battery didn’t like being charged.

 

[mongo]

My truck has done this a few times. But it’s normal for it. Cold weather doesn’t allow it to charge at max 48 amps. It’s been low teens at night the past few days and it’s getting max 24 amps. This goes for all my other cars as well. When it warms up some I get 48 amps.
I have 3 WC all installed for more than 4 years. This happens to me every year when the temperature drops to low teens at night.
Do you park your truck in doors? Try doing max defrost for about a half hour to warm the battery then try to change it and see if you still are getting 24 amps. If you don’t want to max defrost you can always Navigate to a supercharger for a half hour while driving to work or home and then plug it in.
Cold battery didn’t like being charged.

Yah, the truck can pull 48A with HVAC or battery heating on then reduces draw if it gets warm enough.
I was testing this out today. As far as I could tell, Max defrost actually diverts energy from charging. Cabin heating does too, but to a lesser extent. Cabin preconditioning will engage pack heating, but if the vehicle is in charging mode it will heat the battery without engaging the cabin HVAC. To see how much is actually being used to charge, switch the units to miles/hour instead of kWh.

 

[bdesign]

Using a Supercharger this morning

I’ve never looked before now, but shouldn’t the delivery be well above 110kW at a V3 SC Station?

 

[REM]

Using a Supercharger this morning

I’ve never looked before now, but shouldn’t the delivery be well above 110kW at a V3 SC Station?

That charge rate could be nominal depending on conditions, though I would expect closer to 200 kW if your battery is warm and no other cars are charging beside you.

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