Totally Bricked CT at supercharger

[mongo]

Can you also share the cost for a new 12v battery? WOndering if there's an upgraded Lithium Ion option....

The 48V battery is $370

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[CyberGus]

Keep in mind that 12V has 1/4th the power of 48V, and may have trouble running some accessories (like the steering). If you overload your power supply, everything shuts down.

My advice after jump-starting:

• Open at least 1 window so you won't get locked out. Place a towel in the door jamb to stop you from closing it.
• Don't close the frunk, lower it manually but don't latch it. Throw a towel over the latch if needed. (The truck will drive at low speed with the frunk unlatched.)
• Disable "walk-away lock" (although that won't engage if a door is open).
• Immediately turn climate OFF.
• Turn off any other accessories, like outlets, and even music.
• Turn headlights OFF and auto-wipers OFF.
• Open the vault slightly, or the tailgate, to ensure access to the bed (and to the charge-handle emergency release). The tailgate emergency-release can be accessed when the tonneau is open a few inches.
• Open the charge-port door (although charging won't start without the system already on). If not charging, unplug so that the vehicle can be moved.
• Straighten the steering right away, before you run out of juice.

I'm not sure why all this is necessary, since the power-on sequence should open the HV contactors and start supplying 48V via the PCS. I guess it depends on the nature of the problem. From what I've read, the truck should be fully operable without the MV battery at all, but I've not tried this.

You would think that the CPU would detect the 12V supply and engage some of the power-savings shown above automatically...

 

[eclipseforever]

Sorry that happened to you bro

I’ve had 5 different Teslas, 250,000 miles and never had any significant issue until today. And it was awful.
On a 350 mile trip back to home. Half way I plugged in to supercharger at 18% charge, went in to pick up some snacks, left the dog with dog mode on. About 20 minutes later at 50% got a “critical“ alert notification to “return to truck immediately“, “environmental system error and dog mode inoperative”. Went back to the truck, looked ok except the same alert at the bottom of the screen and it had stopped charging. Decided to try a different charger but…
-The charge cable would not release. Figured out how to pull the emergency release cable in the tailgate and got the charge cable out.
-Charger port door wouldn’t close. Screen was still working but the “button” did nothing. Same with the control on the app.
-Pushed in the brake to see if that would turn on the car and everything went black. No power to anything.
-Couldn’t open the door to get out. Had to use the emergency lever. Important to note that someone has to be in the truck to open the door when it’s dead. No way to open from the outside if it closes. Also the window doesn’t open slightly as usual so when you do shut it you could easily brake the glass on the outside of the frame.
-While waiting on hold with Tesla roadside it was getting dark and very cold (22F) so wanted to get some layers out of luggage in the back but without power tail gate nor tonneau cover can’t be opened. Same with frunk.
-Had to crawl from the front to the back seat and figure out a completely different emergency release for the back door so I could get the golden retriever out for a walk on the now frozen ice rink of a parking lot.
-Tesla service had me try a “2 minute“ reboot. Didn‘t work. They sent a tow truck. After two very cold hours he arrives.
-Used his jumper box to open the frunk and then attached it to the low voltage terminals behind the plastic at the top of the frunk. (Youtube and an iPhone is a lifesaver).
-Truck woke up, opened the tailgate, etc and the screen came on so I could put it in tow mode. But…
-Started winching it up on the flatbed but was angled wrong. Tried to turn the wheel slightly and I felt a pop in the steering and everything went dead again, including the steering. Also the wheels all locked up so must have cancelled out the tow mode.
-Disconnected and reconnected booster to low voltage terminals and tried again. Everything woke up again, but immediately died when I tried to do anything with the wheel. Repeated a couple of times but his booster box was too low on charge and the doors would no longer open. (I’m wondering if the booster had a better charge if the steering would have stayed alive longer?)
-Had to use “go jacks”(?), little sleds under each locked wheel, and finally, after snapping one tow rope, he was able to drag it, locked wheels and all, up on the flatbed. (Why he was using a rope along with the tow straps I have no idea.)
-It’s now on the way to a service center a couple of hours away. It’s well past closing so we will find out tomorrow (hopefully) what the problem is. -In the meantime we found a pet friendly Uber and a nearby pet friendly hotel and are checked in and warming up. Very rough day. But learned a lot. To be continued.

 

[vandytom]

YouTube says hide/use a 12v tiny battery like A23 to open frunk then use a jumper stored there to reboot. It’s a tiny battery that can be hidden away.

 

[vandytom]

I never knew you could buy such small 12V batteries. Then again, I'm not a battery researchologist, so theres that...

I didn’t notice until now. It’s same one for my remote. the CyberTruck Achilles.

 

[Schroederhc]

Grok says the A23 sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, depending on the circumstances. I purchased the smallest jump pack I could find and will figure out a way to secure it outside on the truck.

 

[Dedmo]

OP here. Thanks for all the replies, ideas and sympathy. We finally made it to the service center and the truck had been dropped off but they hadn’t gotten to it yet. Their first guess is the power converter. They gave me a Beast as a loaner (geez, it will snap your cervical spine if you‘re not careful). Their customer service has vastly improved the last couple of years.
Some great ideas posted. I did order a 12v box and will keep it somewhere under the seat. I figure in the worst case scenario where you’re trapped outside the car somebody will have jumper cables you can borrow or whoever comes to tow will have them. If I was smarter and knew what I know now I could have taken care of that myself since there was an Autozone across the parking lot where we died!! Would still have needed the flatbed though.
Great suggestions about aligning the wheels, leaving the frunk open, etc. (it was 22 out so couldn’t tolerate leaving a window down for over two hours.)
Will post the outcome as soon as I know.
Thanks again.

 

[vandytom]

Grok says the A23 sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, depending on the circumstances. I purchased the smallest jump pack I could find and will figure out a way to secure it outside on the truck.

I mean you gotta restock them every year for best results. If not twice a year.

 

[TyPope]

Who will be the first to put a jump pack in the frunk and wire it to the two leads that you can access from the front tire and simply put a momentary on button in the cover?

Will it be me? Maybe... I'm thinking:

1. Power Bank (any that always supplies power)
2. The Button
3. Connectors

My steps:
1. Locate the two wires by the wheel well. Attach wires to those.
2. Run one wire to the switch and then to the Frunk with the other wire.
3. Mount the switch to the cover you remove to access the wires.
4. Take those two wires that are now terminate in the frunk and attach one of the connectors.
5. Cut the Charge wires from the jump box and attach connectors to wires coming from the power box AND the clamps so they can be used later.
6. Attach the jump box to the switch via the connector. You should now be able to press the button and release the frunk.

NOTE: You would not be able to use a jump box that requires you to "turn it on" before using as that would defeat the purpose.

Yeah, then, I'd probably design a simple mount for the jump box to keep it in place and make it easy to remove and charge up.

 

[LuvOrH8]

Who will be the first to put a jump pack in the frunk and wire it to the two leads that you can access from the front tire and simply put a momentary on button in the cover?

Will it be me? Maybe... I'm thinking:

1. Power Bank (any that always supplies power)
2. The Button
3. Connectors

My steps:
1. Locate the two wires by the wheel well. Attach wires to those.
2. Run one wire to the switch and then to the Frunk with the other wire.
3. Mount the switch to the cover you remove to access the wires.
4. Take those two wires that are now terminate in the frunk and attach one of the connectors.
5. Cut the Charge wires from the jump box and attach connectors to wires coming from the power box AND the clamps so they can be used later.
6. Attach the jump box to the switch via the connector. You should now be able to press the button and release the frunk.

NOTE: You would not be able to use a jump box that requires you to "turn it on" before using as that would defeat the purpose.

Yeah, then, I'd probably design a simple mount for the jump box to keep it in place and make it easy to remove and charge up.

Hmm interesting idea. Just need to mount that button in a place where it can be accidentally hit by debris or anything on the road. That to me would be the biggest issue. Imagine driving and something accidentally hits it and your frunk opens while driving.

 

[mongo]

Hmm interesting idea. Just need to mount that button in a place where it can be accidentally hit by debris or anything on the road. That to me would be the biggest issue. Imagine driving and something accidentally hits it and your frunk opens while driving.

The frunk popper leads are supposed to only work when the MV battery is dead.

 

[TyPope]

Hmm interesting idea. Just need to mount that button in a place where it can be accidentally hit by debris or anything on the road. That to me would be the biggest issue. Imagine driving and something accidentally hits it and your frunk opens while driving.

I was thinking I'd just drill a hole in the rubber cover that hides the wires. The switch would be hard to get to and it would have to be pressed up.

 

[Fugue]

The frunk popper leads are supposed to only work when the MV battery is dead.

In that case, I wonder why they didn't wire them to the normal frunk button.

Edit: nevermind, I read that wrong. It still needs voltage.

 

[Lasttoy]

Where is rear door emergency pull??
I can't find it

 

[pricedm]

Where is rear door emergency pull??
I can't find it

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