Snow blocking headlights

BrockN

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Would this be the fix for the 48V?
I was given this link by Hookalakupia.
https://tsportline.com/collections/...-auxiliary-48v-to-12v-power-conversion-system
There are plenty of 48 volt nominal input buck converters on the market. That looks like it would be a reasonable one.

For most '12 Volt' car devices, you actually want around 13.8 Volts, because that's the voltage you typically see when an ICE vehicle is running. Most converters either actually output 13.8 Volts, or have an adjustment to set the output voltage that high. They'll also handle a range of input voltages, which is good, because the 48 Volt feed apparently floats around a fair bit... up into the mid-50 Volt range IIRC. I'm pedantic enough that I'd get them to provide the actual specs of their device before ordering it.

Each Cybertruck 48 V circuit is rated to a maximum of 400 Watts. So 350 Watts as advertised on that linked device would likely be fine. I'd want it to current limit before the Cybertruck feed did... but you likely aren't going to be powering anything too power-hungry... But...

... after saying all that, don't forget that the lightbar that was originally linked actually runs on 48 Volts! So you'd probably use the wireless switch to trigger a relay on the 48 Volt circuit to the lightbar. That means you'd only need enough power from the buck converter to run the wireless switching device and that relay. Very minor power in the scheme of things. This 48 Volt architecture thing can be a PITA... :cool:
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Cybergskr

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I was driving in slow last week on i95. I saw multiple issues with lights. Primary one being the snow buildup on the headlight. The second issue that made it even worse was the back scatter from the front DRL light bar. That made it even more worse for the little output from the headlights. Any option to turn the DRL frunk light bar in such situations or any other ideas to reduce back scatter?
 

BrockN

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I was driving in slow last week on i95. I saw multiple issues with lights. Primary one being the snow buildup on the headlight. The second issue that made it even worse was the back scatter from the front DRL light bar. That made it even more worse for the little output from the headlights. Any option to turn the DRL frunk light bar in such situations or any other ideas to reduce back scatter?
Sorry, I'm laughing. Not at you... rather, at the fact that it was just over a year ago when I posted about how dangerous that DRL is in heavy snow on a dark night. I got a lot of abuse for it, essentially suggesting I don't know how to drive in the snow... LOL. But as you found out, the right (wrong!) mixture of conditions makes for a brutal drive. You would think that Tesla would have added a setting to turn off the DRL when the headlights are on.... but here we are... šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø

I think I saw something in the release notes several firmware revisions ago that suggested they'd dimmed the DRL. But I haven't hit the right conditions this winter to see if that has made it any better. I'm betting 'not much', because *any* unfocused light up front is going to light up the snow too much if it's a really dark night anyway. And when the headlights are covered too, they become - literally - frosted bulbs that light up everything... the headlight beam pattern and cutoff is gone.

I feel your pain... and I carry a roll of duct tape now.
 

cybergriz

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Well another winter is here and another year of cleaning off my headlight to see while driving at night.
I am wonder what others are doing for light at night? I have seen a few bull bars with integrated LED lighting, a few Baja fog lights, and a few others.
What I really need is something that works! So what are you using, your setup, power supply, give me all your details. I can’t keep driving dark at night.
If you can also supple links I need to purchase something soon. I have been forced to drive my 2014 S RWD when it’s heavy snow because I can’t see with my trucks lights.

I forgot the link

https://a.co/d/6YH4QHC

There are 4 left. Enough for 2 trucks.
No modifications, no installation, $80 solution. Happy snow driving!
 


PungoteagueDave

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I don’t get what’s so hard about getting out every once in a while and swiping the bumper with a gloved hand. It’s not like people drive a lot when it’s actually snowing anyway, or that there are so many days of driving snow, even in high-snow locales. Talking like this is an existential concern is a truly first world phenomenon.
 

CyberGus

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I don’t get what’s so hard about getting out every once in a while and swiping the bumper with a gloved hand. It’s not like people drive a lot when it’s actually snowing anyway, or that there are so many days of driving snow, even in high-snow locales. Talking like this is an existential concern is a truly first world phenomenon.
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Cybergskr

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Sorry, I'm laughing. Not at you... rather, at the fact that it was just over a year ago when I posted about how dangerous that DRL is in heavy snow on a dark night. I got a lot of abuse for it, essentially suggesting I don't know how to drive in the snow... LOL. But as you found out, the right (wrong!) mixture of conditions makes for a brutal drive. You would think that Tesla would have added a setting to turn off the DRL when the headlights are on.... but here we are... šŸ¤¦ā€ā™‚ļø

I think I saw something in the release notes several firmware revisions ago that suggested they'd dimmed the DRL. But I haven't hit the right conditions this winter to see if that has made it any better. I'm betting 'not much', because *any* unfocused light up front is going to light up the snow too much if it's a really dark night anyway. And when the headlights are covered too, they become - literally - frosted bulbs that light up everything... the headlight beam pattern and cutoff is gone.

I feel your pain... and I carry a roll of duct tape now.
To make matters even worse, the windshield wiper can't keep the glass clean. Only cleans well where the windshield liquid touches the glass.

I am thinking of baja designs squadron SAE amber fog lights next to the toe hooks. They seem to be street legal as they are SAE rated. Cybertruckco sells the pro version which I believe is not SAE rated. And may be tint the frunk light and may be the headlights with amber to reduce back scatter glare. Did anyone try any of these?
 


Gaximus

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I have idea for a solution, but lack of snow Colorado this year. I’m thinking of 3D printing a curved wedge thing to sit next to the light with the curve angle pointing toward the light from the inside to outside. This would cause some of the wind to blow across the front of the light hopefully preventing build up.
 

CyberSav

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I don’t get what’s so hard about getting out every once in a while and swiping the bumper with a gloved hand. It’s not like people drive a lot when it’s actually snowing anyway, or that there are so many days of driving snow, even in high-snow locales. Talking like this is an existential concern is a truly first world phenomenon.
Have you actually driven your CT through a snow storm in the dark? It's a PITA to completely lose light output, have to find somewhere SAFE to pull over in the grueling conditions, struggle to get the snow and ice to clear (sometimes the ice is impossible to just "wipe" off) from a very small strip that has sharp frunk edges that can cut you... All to have to do it again just a few minutes later.

Some of us have higher standards for quality of life and what is expected from a vehicle. This night time snow driving experience ain't it, sis. Let's not pretend it's normal or a non-issue. It is.
 

MyOtherTruck

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Here are photos of the issues we were having, along with our solve from a different thread. We just installed a bumper lightbar with an added amber tint and it’s been outstanding! We had 7ft of snow over several days in the Sierras, along with freezing rain, single digit temps and snow storms that were dropping almost 2ā€ per hour. The lightbar was a game changer for us.

I have the same problem in VT. Bullet proof ice build up on my bumper that blocks my lights. I got the light bar but haven’t installed it yet.
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