New Bumper Light Bar installed

[mindstatements]

I'm assuming that the hissing is coming from the DC-DC step down converter?? I've seen recommendations to put it into a Faraday cage to reduce the radiated noise.

I may try this and report back here

Sponsored

 

[Seekmastery]

They told me the parts needed was some screws, is that what you where told in the email?

Yes. I went to homedepot and bought my own M8 bolts because there were no bolts to attach it to the truck. It came with nuts and washers that didn't even go with the kit. But since I have the grill light too. I need a BUS splitter also

 

[Brandon McNees]

Bump. Excited to potentially see a fix. I want more light at the front of the CT!

 

[T3s1a]

Do we know if the light bar runs on 12v or 48v? If 12v that would make sense it’s a DC-DC step down converter.

I wonder if a higher quality converter would take care of the hissing?

If nothing else, I’m considering just tapping into the 48v frunk power supply and wiring the light bar to that. I could either just have it powered anytime the truck is on or wire in a relay swirch so it will only turn on with the headlights.

 

[mindstatements]

I got a response from TesStudio that told me to cut the pink wire from the female harness to stop the hissing sound.

I cut the pink cord and the hiss is gone but the light bar is also not working.

below is the video they included:

 

[misdemeanor]

Do we know if the light bar runs on 12v or 48v? If 12v that would make sense it’s a DC-DC step down converter.

Most 3rd party light bars will run at 12V and require a step-down converter to connect to the truck.

 

[Brandon McNees]

Most 3rd party light bars will run at 12V and require a step-down converter to connect to the truck.

But how do you keep it from hissing?!

 

[misdemeanor]

But how do you keep it from hissing?!

The "hissing" is caused by the high frequency switching action inherent to buck (step‑down) converters. There are several things that can be done:

• Get a better quality DC-DC step down converter https://amzn.to/428TZ9g
• Apply a non-conductive epoxy or potting compound to the inductor to reduce vibrations. This dampens noise
• Add a low-pass LC filter on the output to smooth ripple and reduce high-frequency noise

 

[Brandon McNees]

The "hissing" is caused by the high frequency switching action inherent to buck (step‑down) converters. There are several things that can be done:

• Get a better quality DC-DC step down converter https://amzn.to/428TZ9g
• Apply a non-conductive epoxy or potting compound to the inductor to reduce vibrations. This dampens noise
• Add a low-pass LC filter on the output to smooth ripple and reduce high-frequency noise

Thanks!

 

[Brandon McNees]

The "hissing" is caused by the high frequency switching action inherent to buck (step‑down) converters. There are several things that can be done:

• Get a better quality DC-DC step down converter https://amzn.to/428TZ9g
• Apply a non-conductive epoxy or potting compound to the inductor to reduce vibrations. This dampens noise
• Add a low-pass LC filter on the output to smooth ripple and reduce high-frequency noise

I'm interested to see if anyone will try some of these and report back so I have the courage to follow!

 

[misdemeanor]

I'm interested to see if anyone will try some of these and report back so I have the courage to follow!

Give me a few weeks and I'll try a few things. I won't be going with the bumper light bar that OP is using, but I do like the look of it!

 

[T3s1a]

I got a response from TesStudio that told me to cut the pink wire from the female harness to stop the hissing sound.

I cut the pink cord and the hiss is gone but the light bar is also not working.

below is the video they included:

Well that’s not very helpful if the light no longer works!

Can anyone translate what he is saying in the video?

The module that seems to be causing the hissing doesn’t look like any of the step down converters I’ve seen on Amazon. Looks more like a Canbus module. If so I’m not sure what could be done to improve the quality.

if that’s the case I’m also not sure where the power steps down

 

[T3s1a]

There are 3 wires coming out of the light bar - black, red, and yellow.

I tried applying 12v to the red and black to ground and unfortunately no light. Also tried applying 12v to the yellow wire while the other to wires were connected thinking it was some kind of relay switch and still no light. Bummer! If there is no fix to the hissing sound I want to just hardwire it to the frunk power supply but I can’t figure how to turn it on.

Anyone have any other ideas on how to just directly power the light bar without the whole harness?

 

[T3s1a]

New update.

I went back and forth with messaging Tlyard about the light bar causing the hissing. They referred me to the video where the pink wire was cut but I didn’t want to do that since someone already tried it and it didn’t fix the problem.

About a month went by and I received a message from Tlyard stating they were sending me a new harness. Cool! It took a few weeks to get here and I just got finished installing the light…and the fix works! No more hissing at all and the light works as expected.

I looked at the new harness to see what changed - it looks like the pink wire now is tapped into a different wire in the harness. Old on top; new on bottom

You can see the pink wire now is bundled with the black and red wire instead of the yellow and green.

I traced the pink wire up and it looks like they tapped into a different wire. It was just twisted together and wrapped so I added some solder to make it more secure.

Happy to have a working light with no hiss anymore! Thanks to Tlyard for their follow up support.

 

[mindstatements]

Reaching out TesStudio now for a similar wire harness fix

Sponsored