My Cybertruck DIY Polishing Results After 3 Days

[once-set]

Did you really use a grinder? I hope not.

Use a random orbit sander with a 5 mm orbit and non-woven abrasive pads (if you want to match the factory finish). I haven't noticed any metal particles (but I use a vacuum connected to the sander).

It comes out looking better than right from the factory!

Can you give us more details on your process and results? Which pads?

Sponsored

 

[65SoYoLO]

Looks great, great job!

 

[BenlovesCT]

Looks awesome!

 

[CYB3RQ]

Looks amazing, but I wonder how trippy it'll be for people seeing their car's reflection so clearly

 

[HaulingAss]

I mean if you’re polishing into a mirror I don’t think the random orbit sander matters does it? Your not trying to get any specific grain in there

It matters. A random orbit will minimize swirl marks and leave a finer finish than an angle grinder, making the final polishing take less time.

It's interesting an unique to have a mirror finish, but I wouldn't do it. A better option, IMO, is to stop going to finer grits at around 1000 grit. This will give you much of the color reflecting look of a mirror finish but leave a smooth, softer satin finish look that will make the panels look more flat (a mirror finish highlights any minor waviness in a not so flattering way). Of course, if you go to a mirror finish and decide you don't like it, you could achieve an even satin finish in two to four hours.

Using a 6" random orbit sander and silicon carbide metal polishing sandpaper, the Cybertruck can be taken from the factory finish and the normal very fine scratches from mud and bushwhacking to a beautifully smooth and soft satin finish in under a day.

 

[HaulingAss]

Can you give us more details on your process and results? Which pads?

I've only used abrasive pads and sandpaper made by Festool which is a German company and somewhat expensive relative to most other brands. I'm sure there are less expensive products from other companies that will give similar results for less money but I haven't tried them. The quality of the abrasives does matter for achieving a satin finish, it comes down to how well graded the particle sizes are and how well they are bonded to the backing without contaminating the surface you are working on with adhesive residues.

I've successfully used Festool Vlies non-woven pads from 100 grit (for removing visible scratches) to 320 and 800 grits (for establishing something very close to the factory finish (only better). The 320 looks perhaps slightly more matte than factory and the 800 slightly more polished than factory (but either one can roughly replicate the factory finish). These pads use aluminum oxide for the abrasive and the natural hardness of the hard frickin' steel takes it's toll on the cutting power fairly rapidly.

I've also followed up with Vlies with Festool's Platin foam-backed metal polishing pads in 400, 500 and 1000 grits. These use a harder silicon carbide abrasive that is very evenly graded for particulate size. The reason particulate size matters is because the "look" of your Cybertruck will very much depend upon how it reflects light and a very consistent scratch size is what creates a consistent, even look. The 400 grit is probably the most useful, perhaps the 500 too, the 1000 grit polishes it a bit finer than I like. All of them give a very consistent soft looking finish. I think the binder is a little cleaner too, compared to their Vlies pads.

Using a 6" random orbit (vs. a 5") will probably save you around 25-30% of the time required. It's the right size for the job. Using a vacuum and dust shroud on the tool will extend the life of your abrasives and, when polishing outside, I don't feel the need to wear a dust mask, it's a relatively clean process. That said, it would not be wrong to use a dust mask, I just haven't noticed I'm breathing in much of anything (and I tend to be pretty sensitive to those things now days). I haven't experimented with using the Platin pads wet, but they are rated for wet polishing and that may extend the life of the abrasives, and reduce dust to nothing. A good fitting dust shroud, properly adjusted, gets all of the dust anyway, as far as I can tell.

Use a light touch (light pressure) and do it "blind" This means not paying attention to what you are seeing as you polish, just follow a pattern like a robot would. It's all about feeling your tool and keeping it moving lightly and consistently.

Tesla has instructions on this in the Cybertruck Service Manual, I basically followed their advice but used products from Festool, instead of the two products they specify. They instruct to "overlap" each pass by one inch. But the way I understand "overlap" I think they mean overlap each pass by 5 inches. With a 6" tool that is what will advance each pass by 1". And, of course, alternate horizontal and vertical patterns. Keep the tool moving and do more patterns (rather than trying to make one set of horizontal and vertical patterns suffice by going slower and pressing harder). Just keep the tool moving at a moderate speed and repeat the patterns as necessary until it looks uniform. Wipe down the area with rubbing alcohol on a clean microfiber when putting a new abrasive pad on. This removes contaminates from the binder that has stuck to the surface (the rag will look dark after wiping).

I LOVE the fact that the Cybertruck has no coatings or films on the bodywork, that it's just raw, bare metal. Because this makes it so easy to keep looking new indefinitely. Even the bodywork of a truck that has lived a hard life, outside 24/7, wheeled through mud and brush, etc, for over 20 years can look just as good as new, anytime you want, with nothing more than a light surface polish.

 

[js-cybertruck]

I think this may have been addressed in other similar threads that I haven’t located, but I'm curious; are there any laws or issues with reflection and/or glare associated with potentially blinding other drivers on the road? Also, after polishing does it seem to be more resistant to fingerprints? It would be really cool if it was much more resilient to abrasion marks from being off road going through brush etc. Have you heard of anything related to this after polishing?

No laws on the books against a shiny car. (yet) I do get people checking their hair and makeup next to my CT.

 

[js-cybertruck]

OP did you use anything to “seal” the finish? I’ve read up on diy and people always mention sealing it when done

You can seal it. But i don't see a need since water beads right off. My goal was no fingerprints and less maintenance.

 

[js-cybertruck]

Need more info on this process. Show us a photo right at the stage where you were like, "why in the world am I doing this?"

Funny you said that. After the first panel (which was the rear)i thought about it. But i watched a lot of Internet videos on this before i decided. The process is to use 3 different clay bars and 3 different buffing pads on the grinder at 2k RPM. So, you really go over the entire truck 3 times.

 

[TCybertruck]

What did you use to polish after sanding?

 

[roebling]

I used Renegade products and Dewalt grinder. The project took about 3 days to complete. Very messy metal particles get all over you in the process. Need respirator and mask, gloves.

Gorgeous!

 

[once-set]

I've only used abrasive pads and sandpaper made by Festool which is a German company and somewhat expensive relative to most other brands. I'm sure there are less expensive products from other companies that will give similar results for less money but I haven't tried them. The quality of the abrasives does matter for achieving a satin finish, it comes down to how well graded the particle sizes are and how well they are bonded to the backing without contaminating the surface you are working on with adhesive residues.

I've successfully used Festool Vlies non-woven pads from 100 grit (for removing visible scratches) to 320 and 800 grits (for establishing something very close to the factory finish (only better). The 320 looks perhaps slightly more matte than factory and the 800 slightly more polished than factory (but either one can roughly replicate the factory finish). These pads use aluminum oxide for the abrasive and the natural hardness of the hard frickin' steel takes it's toll on the cutting power fairly rapidly.

I've also followed up with Vlies with Festool's Platin foam-backed metal polishing pads in 400, 500 and 1000 grits. These use a harder silicon carbide abrasive that is very evenly graded for particulate size. The reason particulate size matters is because the "look" of your Cybertruck will very much depend upon how it reflects light and a very consistent scratch size is what creates a consistent, even look. The 400 grit is probably the most useful, perhaps the 500 too, the 1000 grit polishes it a bit finer than I like. All of them give a very consistent soft looking finish. I think the binder is a little cleaner too, compared to their Vlies pads.

Using a 6" random orbit (vs. a 5") will probably save you around 25-30% of the time required. It's the right size for the job. Using a vacuum and dust shroud on the tool will extend the life of your abrasives and, when polishing outside, I don't feel the need to wear a dust mask, it's a relatively clean process. That said, it would not be wrong to use a dust mask, I just haven't noticed I'm breathing in much of anything (and I tend to be pretty sensitive to those things now days). I haven't experimented with using the Platin pads wet, but they are rated for wet polishing and that may extend the life of the abrasives, and reduce dust to nothing. A good fitting dust shroud, properly adjusted, gets all of the dust anyway, as far as I can tell.

Use a light touch (light pressure) and do it "blind" This means not paying attention to what you are seeing as you polish, just follow a pattern like a robot would. It's all about feeling your tool and keeping it moving lightly and consistently.

Tesla has instructions on this in the Cybertruck Service Manual, I basically followed their advice but used products from Festool, instead of the two products they specify. They instruct to "overlap" each pass by one inch. But the way I understand "overlap" I think they mean overlap each pass by 5 inches. With a 6" tool that is what will advance each pass by 1". And, of course, alternate horizontal and vertical patterns. Keep the tool moving and do more patterns (rather than trying to make one set of horizontal and vertical patterns suffice by going slower and pressing harder). Just keep the tool moving at a moderate speed and repeat the patterns as necessary until it looks uniform. Wipe down the area with rubbing alcohol on a clean microfiber when putting a new abrasive pad on. This removes contaminates from the binder that has stuck to the surface (the rag will look dark after wiping).

I LOVE the fact that the Cybertruck has no coatings or films on the bodywork, that it's just raw, bare metal. Because this makes it so easy to keep looking new indefinitely. Even the bodywork of a truck that has lived a hard life, outside 24/7, wheeled through mud and brush, etc, for over 20 years can look just as good as new, anytime you want, with nothing more than a light surface polish.

Awesome! Thanks for the details. Which sander at which speed did you use for it? Did you practice on anything before starting the truck?

 

[REM]

No laws on the books against a shiny car. (yet) I do get people checking their hair and makeup next to my CT.

Yeah, we've had several threads about this topic so far. My general advice is has the real potential of opening you up to personal liability if someone names you in court as the principle reason for a collision on the roadway. They can claim your modification created a situation in which they were significantly blinded by high intensity reflections. Something to definitely keep in mind.

You can seal it. But i don't see a need since water beads right off. My goal was no fingerprints and less maintenance.

If you want to seal it, I highly recommend this.

 

[CyberGus]

I've been working up to a ceramic coating (Pan's Clear 8-Year) but I'm struggling on panel prep. There are some scuffs/scratches that I don't want locked in for the next 8 years lol, but I'm hesitant to attack them aggressively. It's mostly just the frunk lid, but I'm worried that once I start sanding I'll end up doing the whole truck

 

[js-cybertruck]

What did you use to polish after sanding?

Stainless Polishing Mini Kit - Renegade Products USA

Sponsored