Best way to glue on a used OEM Beast bar

[ABILISK]

Damn. That’s intense. But I’m guessing effective.
do we think a glue gun is safe near the light/electronics?

If you mean a heat gun, yeah, using it on the backside of the lightbar shouldn’t be any issue. It’s just to turn the dried adhesive into a mush again so it can be removed.

Sponsored

 

[mongo]

Oscillating multitool?

 

[Friday]

Brakleen?

 

[JCERRN]

Fair point. I’m fairly intent on doing it though. Already spent the money on the bar. There is no other way I can think of to attach it

Where'd you get it? ?

you can try to make mounting hardware for it, like drill into the plastic? I agree that i would not try to remount with adhesive to the windshield.

 

[hemiarch]

Where'd you get it? ?

you can try to make mounting hardware for it, like drill into the plastic? I agree that i would not try to remount with adhesive to the windshield.

Got it off a mutual friend who had it installed on his cyberbeast and it started to lift. He decided he wasn’t gonna give Tesla a second chance and didn’t want it so he sold it to me.
The price was hard to turn down so here we are.
I had such a success with vhb on the aftermarket bar I decided to try it here too.
KISS principle I guess.
just need two nice surfaces to do it on first.

 

[Gaximus]

If you get the glue to start peeling up, pull out in the flat direction alone the same plane it’s glued to, don’t pull it at an angle. Like a command strip hook thing. Most adhesives come off pretty easy that way, also as some one else mentioned, heat gun. to much heat might cause the adhesive to break.

 

[eswimm]

Has it been confirmed if the OEM lightbar works with the AWD? Seemed like mixed opinions in other threads, presumably you've confirmed function before trying to mount it?

 

[eswimm]

Also, since I'm not particularly well versed in mounting something like that on a vehicle, is the bead around the edge (as evident in the photo) the documented mounting method? My assumption (possibly incorrect) would be that the expansion and contraction of the air trapped in the void would continuously weaken the adhesion and eventually allow contaminants to work it loose over time. I would think that complete coverage of the area between the bar and windshield would provide much better holding strength and minimize the chances of failure.

 

[Willinak]

VHB, done right, works exceptionally well, especially on glass. The challenge with a piece this large is maintaining a constant contact area (having cleaned both surfaces and prepped with adhesion promotor. This technique is the best way to ensure you maximise the contact area. I really don't know why Tesla opted for a more complicated technique that's clearly more error prone.

Beware of fake VHB on Amazon, it's everywhere. Most of the time the fake stuff is fine, but not for this, and the seller "Couzeely" screams of yet another Chinese temporary brand. I think this is the VHB you'll need. I'd switch out the nano tape you have with this, the nano tape doesn't do well long-term with UV exposure and high-vibration environments.

Thanks for you opinion...I agree that VHB would be the correct adhesive, and appreciate your technique link!

 

[Friday]

Got it off a mutual friend who had it installed on his cyberbeast and it started to lift. He decided he wasn’t gonna give Tesla a second chance and didn’t want it so he sold it to me.
The price was hard to turn down so here we are.
I had such a success with vhb on the aftermarket bar I decided to try it here too.
KISS principle I guess.
just need two nice surfaces to do it on first.

I have advice from a longtime vintage car restorer that Berryman's B12 and plastic razor blade scraper could be a removal process on the dried adhesive surfaces. The caveat is that the Berryman's affect on whatever surface is under the adhesive (is the bottom of the light bar metal or plastic) could react to the cleaner. So, it's use at own risk.

 

[hemiarch]

Ok. So Pete and the other scrapers were right. It worked but I did a very boneheaded thing.
Right towards the end I lost control of the blade and hit the wire transecting the black and green. I carefully dissected it for exposure which is how I know it’s black and green. It’s rather close to the bar unfortunately.
I don’t have have that kind of stripping and soldering skill. Anyone have any advice or did I just throw away this bar?

 

[hemiarch]

What’re do I find someone amazing at small
Soldering? Is there such a thing as a tv repair shop or that kind of thing any more?

 

[AO-Pete]

This really is the project that keeps on giving! I think you could use a solder-seal butt connector...if you watch the second (19s) video on this page, you'll get an idea of what's needed, but I think you just about have enough wire for it.

 

[Art138]

What’re do I find someone amazing at small
Soldering? Is there such a thing as a tv repair shop or that kind of thing any more?

Why not cut around the green/black wires to expose them more to strip them ? You can carefully cut a semi-circle around those wires and after you restore them with press connectors fill in the space with silicone.

 

[Friday]

Since you work around surgical equipment, sometimes the hospital equipment maintenance departments have really good soldering equipment. A buddy of mine used to do that work at Banner, but he's since retired. Check with them and see if you can get a favor.

Sponsored