Fix for Door Vibration Bass Drum Rumble at high-speed/cross-winds -- Service Bulletin SB-25-10-002 (Inspect Door Assemblies For Low-Pitched Noises)

[pae1andonly]

Recently had rear seat passengers observe excessive not only wind noise from the back windows but actual WIND.

Turns out there is a windows calibration procedure that works.

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[vandytom]

JUST TAPE EVERY DAMN THANG!

I have a rattle from the rear passenger side on High Bass. Anyone know where the culprit?

 

[dotat]

PDF Download: Service Bulletin PDF: Inspect Door Assemblies For Low-Pitched Noises And LH Side Mirror Shaking

I have complained since the day I picked up my truck about the low rumble and my mirror vibrating on the driver's side when driving at high-speeds or hit with a strong cross-wind. My Tesla Service Center has really tried to fix it including two new doors. I think after the third door on my driver's side it was slightly less shaky/boomy. Early on they even listed no engineering solution to the mirror issue. You could hear and feel it on your knee shaking the door. The noise is more like a bass drum as the wind hits the door (very low frequency). I had even tried taping my door gaps closed and getting in on the passenger side to see if the draft was catching the door funny. I actually had resign myself to living with it as a design flaw. I have ridden in 3 different Cybertrucks and they all had the Low-pitched booming and vibration at higher speeds.

I saw a post earlier this fall from someone regarding SB-25-10-002, but I can't track down the post. When I read the service bulletin, I was shocked when I read the following inspection notes. "Test drive the vehicle on the highway, at speeds greater than 60 mph (96 km/h), listening for a low-pitched booming or vibration coming from the doors, and also checking the LH side mirror glass for visible shaking/rattling." This is exactly what I wrote on my first list of items when I picked up my Cybertruck from the dealership.

I really wanted to believe Tesla finally acknowledge the issue and had an engineering solution, but it was hard to believe after having doors replaced this butyl patch and adhesive was going to solve the issue. I apprehensively contacted the service center and listed this SB-25-10-002 along with cantrail recall replacement, seat motor (second one replaced), and some cosmetically things I paid to have fixed. The initial response was a diagnostic fee on the door noise and through some deep conversations with the service manager, he agreed to have his master mechanical review the need for that that SB without charging me. Honestly, the Service Manager was very nice about it despite seeing two door replacements.

I picked up my truck last night. Well, my early report after driving home at 70-80 mph with cross-breezes at 20 mph I actually think it is fixed or at least the driver's side is fixed. They did not do the passengers side which will be a follow on post, since I took it and told them I will try it out with the driver's side done, but would likely comeback for the passenger side if it worked. There was no vibration in the mirror, no thunder booming, no vibration on my knee from the door booming in and/out. The truck seemed much quieter. I had a 35 minute drive with no indication of the problem. There are some 30-40 mile cross-winds happening today, hopefully I will get a chance to go out on the highway and test it some more.

I think most owners don't realize that the CT should not be booming and vibrating and would be surprised with the difference.

Amazing! I have this too and figured it may be tire related. I’ll put this on the list when I take mine in for new cantrails soon.

 

[Hammy60]

I had this bulletin done on both front doors. I only reported the driver door and it fixed it. Man was it annoying! They did the passenger door as preventative. Couldn't be happier!

 

[Scrambler]

JUST TAPE EVERY DAMN THANG!

I have a rattle from the rear passenger side on High Bass. Anyone know where the culprit?

Have had this same problem for months and service center kept blaming it on my aftermarket parts, when I repeatedly told them the rattling was occurring BEFORE they were installed. Definitely scheduled myself to get this SB done. Will be asking them to do it on ALL doors considering Im hearing it now in the front doors as well.

 

[cyberHoward]

I had this bulletin done on both front doors. I only reported the driver door and it fixed it. Man was it annoying! They did the passenger door as preventative. Couldn't be happier!

I can't believe the difference when I hit the Driver's side door that was fixed and then the passenger door that remains to be fixed. The sound is solid and dead on the driver's side and the passenger's side is like a drum that reverberates. I told them I would be assessing the passenger door, fingers are crossed I can talk them into doing it. I want the back doors done too as they actually have a rattle too when I thump. I am not sure what I say other than they rattle and boom like the front driver's door did. I can't imagine how quiet the truck will be then.

 

[edsonbarron]

JUST TAPE EVERY DAMN THANG!

I have a rattle from the rear passenger side on High Bass. Anyone know where the culprit?

Mine had this, it’s the carpet vibrating over the sub. I lifted the carpet and stuffed like 6 microfiber towels around the sub and if fixed it. And right after that my driver seat started rattling and it was the plastic frame that had gotten detatched from the seat cushion. Shoved some towels in there too. all bad

 

[vandytom]

Mine had this, it’s the carpet vibrating over the sub. I lifted the carpet and stuffed like 6 microfiber towels around the sub and if fixed it. And right after that my driver seat started rattling and it was the plastic frame that had gotten detatched from the seat cushion. Shoved some towels in there too. all bad

Bro this is precisely the issue. Here’s my fix. Use 1 decently long microfiber and use a plastic prying tool to stuff between the gaps. It runs the entire length of the right rear passenger seat floor underneath. The sub vibrates the hard plastic and rattle where it meets the floor panel. Be sure to stuff the entire gap bc any misses will start to rattle. 1 is enough. Just need to stop the panels from touching.

I’m sure others have it or not noticing it. The sub are powerful so it requires some cushioning

PS: song Ink by Coldplay is great for testing rattle with the appropriate amount of bass

 

[Speedr]

Bro this is precisely the issue. Here’s my fix. Use 1 decently long microfiber and use a plastic prying tool to stuff between the gaps. It runs the entire length of the right rear passenger seat floor underneath. The sub vibrates the hard plastic and rattle where it meets the floor panel. Be sure to stuff the entire gap bc any misses will start to rattle. 1 is enough. Just need to stop the panels from touching.

I’m sure others have it or not noticing it. The sub are powerful so it requires some cushioning

PS: song Ink by Coldplay is great for testing rattle with the appropriate amount of bass

@vandytom, would you please take a picture? No idea where and what you're describing.

BTW, if Vandy in Vandytom is for Vanderbilt, my wife went there! Them playing in a New Year's Eve Bowl game, in Tampa to boot, should be great!

 

[vandytom]

@vandytom, would you please take a picture? No idea where and what you're describing.

BTW, if Vandy in Vandytom is for Vanderbilt, my wife went there! Them playing in a New Year's Eve Bowl game, in Tampa to boot, should be great!

Yessir best season in history!

hope this photo helps. Lift up the carpet under rear passenger seat and you’ll see the gap.

 

[Willinak]

I had a pretty good test yesterday with a 15-18 mph cross wind driving around 70 mph. It seems like there is a wind deflection or pressure gradient that sets up a perturbation in the door. If you don’t fix the wind acting on the door, everything else is a band-aid. It may be inherent of the vehicle shape, but it is real.

 

[cyberHoward]

I had a pretty good test yesterday with a 15-18 mph cross wind driving around 70 mph. It seems like there is a wind deflection or pressure gradient that sets up a perturbation in the door. If you don’t fix the wind acting on the door, everything else is a band-aid. It may be inherent of the vehicle shape, but it is real.

I get that it is not an aerodynamic engineering solution, but I am ok if the bandaid makes it feel and sound better. Still on my list to have the other three done in early February and fingers crossed that it helps a little.

 

[TickTock]

That's the fix to your problem.

I am halfway through this upgrade. Waiting for the goo to dry before buttoning it up but here's a before and after of the sound.
Before:


After:

 

[Klis]

I am halfway through this upgrade. Waiting for the goo to dry before buttoning it up but here's a before and after of the sound.
Before:


After:

So satisfying

 

[cyberHoward]

So satisfying

Damn that is nice. It is probably better than service center. I had similar experience with the driver's side door that they fixed and the rest, but I am sure yours 99% and mine is like 90% fixed. I might try and record the sound difference from the outside. It is significant.

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