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Interesting ideas here... not sure about the coffin option, but we have tried camping in the bed first and now cybertent. Found both were great for different reasons and both could use some improvements.

Bed Camping: biggest down side was not being able to keep supplies in the bed every night when we setup camp (daily over a 4-day weekend trip). If we do that again, I’d build a simple plywood shelf on the side rails so you have tons of room under the sleeping area. Of course, you couldn’t sleep with the tonneau cover closed. We didn’t have to worry about bears, having some friendly horses to stand watch, so we just used a tarp and a couple of tent poles to shield against the thunderstorms that happened by that weekend. We had to protect the tarp against the sharp roof peak with a couple of towels, then tie off the corners to the wheels and/or stakes.

We are very interested in adding a duct of some sort from the cab to the bed. We usually leave the pups in the back seat with the AC on all night in camp mode, so it wouldn’t really change much in terms of overnight battery usage to also duct a bit of air to the bed or cybertent. We took out the back seats a while back so i think it’s actually going to be pretty easy just routing a small air duct below the area where the tonneau cover rolls up into. If you then cover up the two can exhaust vents (which are exposed when you remove the back seats), all the exhaust air would be forced through this new duct, so i think it’d provide pretty great cooling.

Another helpful trick we learned, if you want to level the truck using tent mode but then close the tonneau cover: set tent mode, then select jack mode, then exit tent mode. This freezes the suspension in its leveled state.
IMG_9150.jpeg

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Thanks for the leveling trick. I'll be using it frequently.
 

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OP - thanks for sharing all the details of how you use the bed for sleeping!
 

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I've thought of that, and it's an option when weather is favorable and mosquitoes aren't a problem. I like the security that a closed tonneau cover provides, especially in remote off-road areas and bear country. There's also the stealth benefit of a closed tonneau.
As I was reading your reply, I envisioned a roll of material at the end of the bed with one end attached to the tonneau cover. Open The tonneau and the roll unwinds, close the tonneau and the spring loaded rolls back up.

Okay, my initial envision was better than my implementation vision.
 
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Speaking of coffins, don’t get stuck in there like these non owners manual reading fools. It’s in the book on how to get in and out of a Tesla with dead battery.lol.

Don’t know about the vault?! ???

I would probably go for a small trailer before closing myself up in a hot box. ?

IMG_6876.jpeg


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IMG_6878.jpeg
Clearly you haven't read the manual. Battery not needed.
 


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Speaking of coffins, don’t get stuck in there like these non owners manual reading fools.

It’s in the book on how to get in and out of a Tesla with dead battery. lol.

Don’t know about the vault?! ?

?I would probably go for a small trailer before closing myself up in a hot box.?
This a complete BS post.

EVERY Tesla has emergency handles in EVERY compartment that you can get stuck in.

Matter if fact, Tesla has to go through some steps to keep owners from using the emergency handles by accident.

Yes, the Cybertruck has an emergency bed and frunk release. I think that both may even be lighted.

The ONLY slight issue is exit from the rear doors, which is honestly an issue with EVERY vehicle because of back door child locks.
 

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This a complete BS post.

EVERY Tesla has emergency handles in EVERY compartment that you can get stuck in

Yes, the Cybertruck has an emergency bed and frunk release. I think that both may even be lighted.
Preaching to the choir! That wasn’t my point. Was just jokingly warning OP not to get stuck. You are right don’t know anything about the CT or safety features, but don’t understand why other Tesla owners don’t know about their vehicles. Seems to be a new trend!

Tesla Cybertruck Tested: Sleeping in the Bed Vault IMG_6904


Tesla Cybertruck Tested: Sleeping in the Bed Vault IMG_6907


Tesla Cybertruck Tested: Sleeping in the Bed Vault IMG_6906


Tesla Cybertruck Tested: Sleeping in the Bed Vault IMG_6905
 
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Preaching to the choir! That wasn’t my point. Was just jokingly warning OP not to get stuck. You are right don’t know anything about the CT or safety features, but don’t understand why other Tesla owners don’t know about their vehicles. Seems to be a new trend!

IMG_6904.jpeg


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IMG_6905.jpeg
The motivations for publishing articles like these is questionable. Clickbaiting and FUD mongering are too often the reasons.
 

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Preaching to the choir! That wasn’t my point. Was just jokingly warning OP not to get stuck. You are right don’t know anything about the CT or safety features, but don’t understand why other Tesla owners don’t know about their vehicles. Seems to be a new trend!
All you are doing as a Lightning Fanboy is showing your ignorance.
But there are social media folks out there making a LOT of money off of your clicks.

People stuck inside Teslas? I literally have to tell most of my passengers to NOT use the emergency handle. And show them where the correct button is.

Dead Teslas keep locking owners out? This is a picture of the door handle on a Camry. Where's the key hole to unlock it?
Tesla Cybertruck Tested: Sleeping in the Bed Vault 1719248295363-r0


Tesla Cybertruck Tested: Sleeping in the Bed Vault 1719248052646-ig
 

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Interesting ideas here... not sure about the coffin option, but we have tried camping in the bed first and now cybertent. Found both were great for different reasons and both could use some improvements.

Bed Camping: biggest down side was not being able to keep supplies in the bed every night when we setup camp (daily over a 4-day weekend trip). If we do that again, I’d build a simple plywood shelf on the side rails so you have tons of room under the sleeping area. Of course, you couldn’t sleep with the tonneau cover closed. We didn’t have to worry about bears, having some friendly horses to stand watch, so we just used a tarp and a couple of tent poles to shield against the thunderstorms that happened by that weekend. We had to protect the tarp against the sharp roof peak with a couple of towels, then tie off the corners to the wheels and/or stakes.

We are very interested in adding a duct of some sort from the cab to the bed. We usually leave the pups in the back seat with the AC on all night in camp mode, so it wouldn’t really change much in terms of overnight battery usage to also duct a bit of air to the bed or cybertent. We took out the back seats a while back so i think it’s actually going to be pretty easy just routing a small air duct below the area where the tonneau cover rolls up into. If you then cover up the two can exhaust vents (which are exposed when you remove the back seats), all the exhaust air would be forced through this new duct, so i think it’d provide pretty great cooling.

Another helpful trick we learned, if you want to level the truck using tent mode but then close the tonneau cover: set tent mode, then select jack mode, then exit tent mode. This freezes the suspension in its leveled state.
IMG_9150.jpeg
This post is gold.....

Let's please all keep pushing Breezer Windows to get us a product for our CTs.

Can you please elaborate on the removal of the back seats? Do you get any errors from this? Can HVAC still work for 2nd row, to use it to duct air into the vault?

Major thanks for the leveling trick!!!
 
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" set tent mode, then select jack mode, then exit tent mode " This! been looking for this solution - thank you !!!
 

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This post is gold.....

Let's please all keep pushing Breezer Windows to get us a product for our CTs.

Can you please elaborate on the removal of the back seats? Do you get any errors from this? Can HVAC still work for 2nd row, to use it to duct air into the vault?

Major thanks for the leveling trick!!!
Second a sliding glass window!

Back seat HVAC is unaffected and works fine - that is all either in the center console or under the front seats. I think I will use the back floor ducts as the takeoff to route to the vault. I think it’s possible to just turn on the back seat vents and even use manual control to just turn on the floor vents. Still thinking about exactly how/where to feed this through the back wall. Just removed the bed walls and floor for some other modifications…so should have a better idea on this soon.

The back seat removal was an afternoon’s work. A few hidden fasteners that were a bit tricky to find as the service manual procedure was still a bit lacking when I did this.

The errors did throw me for a loop for a bit. I followed the full disconnect of the 48v power steps since the entire seat is plugged in as one connector. Also removed the seatbelt retractors. Both of these resulted in separate SRS errors for the seatbelts and retractors. There workaround I used was to remove the harness from the seat (with seat belts), roll this in to a ball and plug back in the harness. There’s a surprising amount of space below the back floor so this sits out of site. Also I plugged back in the 3 seat belt retractors. All visible errors went away after this. The one error that remains (only seen via service mode) is the back seat occupant sensor since these are embedded into the seats, but fortunately this doesn’t show outside of service mode.

Also added to the back wall is a sound mat (a couple mil thick, stuck on the bare metal wall) and 3 inch thick sound deadening foam (which brings the wall flush with the seat belt retractors). This is totally necessary in my opinion because without the seats in place, the noise from the rear motor was actually very loud. With the sound mat and foam, it’s back to normal.
 

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Second a sliding glass window!

Back seat HVAC is unaffected and works fine - that is all either in the center console or under the front seats. I think I will use the back floor ducts as the takeoff to route to the vault. I think it’s possible to just turn on the back seat vents and even use manual control to just turn on the floor vents. Still thinking about exactly how/where to feed this through the back wall. Just removed the bed walls and floor for some other modifications…so should have a better idea on this soon.

The back seat removal was an afternoon’s work. A few hidden fasteners that were a bit tricky to find as the service manual procedure was still a bit lacking when I did this.

The errors did throw me for a loop for a bit. I followed the full disconnect of the 48v power steps since the entire seat is plugged in as one connector. Also removed the seatbelt retractors. Both of these resulted in separate SRS errors for the seatbelts and retractors. There workaround I used was to remove the harness from the seat (with seat belts), roll this in to a ball and plug back in the harness. There’s a surprising amount of space below the back floor so this sits out of site. Also I plugged back in the 3 seat belt retractors. All visible errors went away after this. The one error that remains (only seen via service mode) is the back seat occupant sensor since these are embedded into the seats, but fortunately this doesn’t show outside of service mode.

Also added to the back wall is a sound mat (a couple mil thick, stuck on the bare metal wall) and 3 inch thick sound deadening foam (which brings the wall flush with the seat belt retractors). This is totally necessary in my opinion because without the seats in place, the noise from the rear motor was actually very loud. With the sound mat and foam, it’s back to normal.

Wow, this is excellent.

Have you thought about making a YouTube video on this process? This is really helpful to a lot of people, and I have been hesitating doing the work until I saw someone start pulling out bolts and wiring before I touched anything.

My first inclination was to try to duct the HVAC from the center console through a modified replacement rear window from breezer windows. I'm going to be installing a refrigerator, microwave, and tool shed drawers in the backseat so I didn't want to try to duct via the flooring.

I've also got a couple of induction cooktops which I am planning on cutting a structure for an installing them in the frunk for a flush cooking surface. Alas, I will have to get an extension cord for this, since there is no plug in the front.

I also found this bad mattress which fits perfectly in the truck bed.

Tesla Cybertruck Tested: Sleeping in the Bed Vault Screenshot_20240530-192419_Chrom
 

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I've also got a couple of induction cooktops which I am planning on cutting a structure for an installing them in the frunk for a flush cooking surface. Alas, I will have to get an extension cord for this, since there is no plug in the front.
Likewise please document this, would be interesting to see how it turns out.
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