Powering Accessories Struggles - Don't let this happen to you!

YukonJack

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Update:

Went on my first long haul trip with this mod over the weekend. You need to know that when your SOC gets down to 20% the Cybertruck goes into Low Power Mode and shut off all the outlets. For my ride the maximum duration was about 15-20 minutes when I road the SOC down to 7% before a SC stop.

I’ll keep this in place for now.

Would like others input on the 12V source outlined in this schematic:

https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybe...e/prog-242/interactive/html/index.html?page=6

Follow the trace for the “2nd Row Display” at the bottom of this schematic. There is a 12V supply from the MCU to the 2nd Row Display that connects at two accessible locations. One in the passenger footwell on X0848-1&2 and the other right where I connected this 120V near the front console panel at X0806-1&2. This appears to carry the coaxial digital video signal to the rear display along with 12VDC. I don’t have time to test this out but wanted to share.
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TeslaKen

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Update:

Went on my first long haul trip with this mod over the weekend. You need to know that when your SOC gets down to 20% the Cybertruck goes into Low Power Mode and shut off all the outlets. For my ride the maximum duration was about 15-20 minutes when I road the SOC down to 7% before a SC stop.

I’ll keep this in place for now.

Would like others input on the 12V source outlined in this schematic:

https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybe...e/prog-242/interactive/html/index.html?page=6

Follow the trace for the “2nd Row Display” at the bottom of this schematic. There is a 12V supply from the MCU to the 2nd Row Display that connects at two accessible locations. One in the passenger footwell on X0848-1&2 and the other right where I connected this 120V near the front console panel at X0806-1&2. This appears to carry the coaxial digital video signal to the rear display along with 12VDC. I don’t have time to test this out but wanted to share.
That would be a drag to suddenly have your mirror and radar detector and other accessories go offline when the battery reaches 20%. What are your thoughts on the other 2 locations? Is the footwell location the one we already know about where 3rd parties are currently tapping in or is it somewhere else in the footwell?
 

eser50

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I have a 48v to 12v stepdown power supply connected to the frunk’s auxiliary power. It’s controlled by a relay that I’m activating using the switched 12v power from the infrared LEDs on the cabin camera. The camera is active when driving and when the Sentry Mode is on.

I’m powering my Hannshow mirror (because it would break my FSD when it'd overheat), a 12v refrigerator, other 12v devices, and USB ports. I’ve also installed a 12v cigarette outlet inside the truck.

It’s great that the power supply doesn’t shut down while charging because it keeps my refrigerator running through my trips. As far as I know, the only way it’ll shut off is if the truck is in low power mode and parked (since Sentry Mode won’t be active to trigger the relay). However, if I’m driving, it’ll keep everything running because the FSD camera needs to be operational even when the battery is below 20%.

The only major limit is power draw, which is capped at 360w I believe.
 

YukonJack

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You can adjust the set-point for when it enters low power mode to either 20% or 10%. So you can drop this down to 10% and likely mitigate when this happens. Depending on your range anxiety level you may never experience this on a long trip.

As for the 48V accessory power : That appears to go off as well as Low Power Mode disables “Keep Accessory Power On”
 


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I've put together a short troubleshooting video that will hopefully help others.


Previously I had installed the Teslaunch front bumper light bar
https://halocybertruck.com/article-list/f/starlink-bumper-light-bar-from-teslaunch

I had also installed the Hansshow Digital Rear View Mirror:
https://halocybertruck.com/article-list/f/cybertruck-digital-rearview-mirror-from-hansshow-v2

And I had attempted to install the Hansshow LED Dash light strip with blind spot warning capabilities

Some prior testing alerted me to the fact that my B-pillar tweeter was not emitting any sound so I knew it must have been either the front bumper light bar or the rear view mirror modification but I never took the time to resolve it.

However, when I tried to install the LED light strip, the LED strip flat out didn't light up despite all the connection being sound. I decided to start removing items from the equation and noticed that not one but two products actually have issues with cooperating with other products and powering factory items like the B-pillar speaker.

I put together this troubleshooting video to demonstrate what works and what doesn't work. Succinctly, here are my results:

Teslaunch front bumper light bar V2 (V1 had issues for other owners) - powers the B-pillar speaker and powers items after it in the daisy chain. No issues.

Hansshow Digital Rear View Mirror - does NOT power the factory B-pillar speaker and does NOT power items after it in the daisy chain.

Hansshow LED Dash light strip - does NOT power the factory B-pillar speaker and does NOT power items after itself in the daisy chain.

I have report both products with issues to Hansshow and provided them video evidence. My suggested resolution to Hansshow was to re-issue corrected power cables to all affected owners. If I get an update from Hansshow I will let everyone know.

I have updated my Digital Rear View Mirror article to reflect these facts and when I produce my article on the LED dash light strip I will of course report the same findings. If these shortcomings get corrected I will of course update my articles accordingly.

Thank you for your attention to this matter. One additional note, I do have a 10.88 inch 2nd screen sitting in a box that I have not attempted to install yet because it requires plugging into the power connector and obviously it would not work if plugged in after the mirror. I don't know if it supports daisy chaining power yet or not to where I could place the mirror after it in the chain but I believe others have reported some results in that area.

Suffice it to say that manufacturers still seem to be learning how to make items that work well with the Cybertruck.
Can't seem to find the bumper light bar anymore. I was going to see if I can buy the harness and tap it with the Hannshow mirror.
 
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TeslaKen

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You can adjust the set-point for when it enters low power mode to either 20% or 10%. So you can drop this down to 10% and likely mitigate when this happens. Depending on your range anxiety level you may never experience this on a long trip.

As for the 48V accessory power : That appears to go off as well as Low Power Mode disables “Keep Accessory Power On”
If I am reading the schematic you linked correctly then there is a connector - X0879 which has a male and female fitting, pin 1 would be a red wire and pin 2 would be a brown wire representing 12v DC positive and negative/ground respectively, is that what you are seeing? Do you know if those wires and/or the X0879 connector is shown in any of your pictures?
 

YukonJack

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I believe X0806 is circled in Green. Colors Match. Very easy to get to…
Tesla Cybertruck Powering Accessories Struggles - Don't let this happen to you! 1770090034620-u4
 

hemiarch

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Are the little ambient and puddle lights under the doors and more importantly in that center console 12v ?
 
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TeslaKen

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Are the little ambient and puddle lights under the doors and more importantly in that center console 12v ?
LED puddle lights are not usually 12v but something less.
@YukonJack may be on to something here, need to test the signal at those wires/connector.
 


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The tweeter is in the A-pillar, it's the structure both in front of and behind the little window. B-pillar is between the doors.

Connector X0930 has the tweeter, full range, blind spot indicator, and microphone. The only unused pins are 4, 5, and 12. Everything else needs to be passed through.

Are those third party products pulling power from the A2B bus? Pins 6/7 or 13/14 with ground on 11?
Mongo uses engineering analysis while others are using “plug and pray.”

I’ll take Mongo for $1,000, Alex.
 

AverageJoe

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Mongo uses engineering analysis while others are using “plug and pray.”

I’ll take Mongo for $1,000, Alex.
Although takes all kinds to push things forward
 
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TeslaKen

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I believe X0806 is circled in Green. Colors Match. Very easy to get to…
1770090034620-u4.webp
Did you get a chance to check this location yet? My garage has been an ice box so I have not had a chance to test yet. If this location works I was thinking of running wires to the passenger footwell and installing a fuse block there with attachment points for all the accessory wires that will need them in that location if I pull apart the harnesses for various items and want to connect them all to a single spot. It also wouldn't hurt to have fuses for each item attached.

If this spot is the place to tap in then the question becomes what way would you tap in? Is there a way to get some sort of connector for this location or would it have to be a wire tap?
 

YukonJack

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I looked at digikey, mouser and others for this Rosenberger automotive fitting but no luck. And even if I found it I need to get the right coax wire and all the special crimp tools to make a nice butt splice. I have some posi-taps on the way. Those are the least destructive way without cutting a wire but will not look great. Will not have time to dive in until the weekend to tackle this. I have a small fuse block as well with some busman 3A fuses.

BTW the other end of this wire connects with the same fitting at the footwell area you’re trying to get to. Click on X0848 and you will see it appears to be just below where Hansshow was tapping in.
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