That Beast Mode

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So why not make this 100% inphil?
lol... It would use a shit ton of material and take 3 days to print. It's also not necessary, the lever is pretty darn strong as is - it was the layer that was an issue, but the nut and bolt thing should solve that.
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CyberGlow

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Tick are you the original designer of it?? I have a Bambu P2S so it is an enclosed printer. I just got it like 2 months ago, so all my materials are new - I did however do a drying cycle on the AMS 2 before using it. I didn't mess with nozzle temp tho - what temp do you recommend?

I’m also using a P2S with 11% humidity
 

TickTock

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So why not make this 100% inphil?
lol... It would use a shit ton of material and take 3 days to print. It's also not necessary, the lever is pretty darn strong as is - it was the layer that was an issue, but the nut and bolt thing should solve that.
Yup. That and there have been many studies showing diminishing returns above 50% and even less strength at 100%.

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CTOmaha

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Exactly what TickTock said, 100% infill could lead to even more layer adhesion problems.

I have a system going now for drying filaments after having adhesion, stringing and blob of death issues. I have this that does the "pre" drying for 48 hrs, I can have four rolls in it.

https://a.co/d/ggiAMpe

Then I have two of these, so I can line up rolls in order of usage, I set to PETG for 24hrs before using the roll. Then, I set it to a lower temp around 122 degrees while printing. Keeps the humidity down around 10%.

https://a.co/d/4Q8QucY

It's been working great.
 


CyberGlow

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Exactly what TickTock said, 100% infill could lead to even more layer adhesion problems.

I have a system going now for drying filaments after having adhesion, stringing and blob of death issues. I have this that does the "pre" drying for 48 hrs, I can have four rolls in it.

https://a.co/d/ggiAMpe

Then I have two of these, so I can line up rolls in order of usage, I set to PETG for 24hrs before using the roll. Then, I set it to a lower temp around 122 degrees while printing. Keeps the humidity down around 10%.

https://a.co/d/4Q8QucY

It's been working great.
The new Bambu Studio update allows for dry filament while printing and setting up drying via the Handy app
 

TickTock

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I’m also using a P2S with 11% humidity
Humidity looks pretty good. Find something small to test with and try increasing the nozzle temp +10 to +15C. That should help. If not try slowing it down. I am not familiar with Bambu, but Prusa provides a couple profiles: stay away from the speed profiles - those are great for quick prototyping prints that don't have to be strong but not good for final prints. I customized the "structural" profile a bit further ("STRUCTURAL - TT" below) to change the infill to 40% Triangular (triangular is stronger than rectilinear).


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CTOmaha

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Humidity looks pretty good. Find something small to test with and try increasing the nozzle temp +10 to +15C. That should help. If not try slowing it down. I am not familiar with Bambu, but Prusa provides a couple profiles: stay away from the speed profiles - those are great for quick prototyping prints that don't have to be strong but not good for final prints. I customized the "structural" profile a bit further ("STRUCTURAL - TT" below) to change the infill to 40% Triangular (triangular is stronger than rectilinear).


1769710263843-kv.webp
Speed and temp make a huge difference. Printing at 250 centigrade and speed slowed down has led to less issues. It does take 2 hours and 20min to print two of these on my printer though.

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TickTock

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I would also make a further comment. Whether due to poor layer adhesion or a surge of adrenalin, if someone *was* to break the lever, the pull loop is still there, clearly identified. So they would just grab it and pull. Still a big improvement over the OEM hidden loop.

This is been an interesting experience for me. When I first shared this model I was actually expecting to get flamed by the fan boys. I knew some folks would want it so I went ahead and posted. Just goes to show you never know...
 


 








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