Emergency Exit Rear Door Release Ideas

[CTOmaha]

As a complete 3d printing rookie, this is a hell of a fun thread to watch. Got my popcorn out.

Really same here - learning a lot making an actual functional part vs making little nick knacks.

I didn't know about manually making seams, supports, different infill types, layer heights, speed settings, layer adhesion practices and so on. The last month has been great. @TickTock also provide some help

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[CTOmaha]

For the popcorn: here is difference in 10% vs 15%:

15%:

And 10%:

 

[hemiarch]

So what is infill?

 

[CyberGlow]

Really same here - learning a lot making an actual functional part vs making little nick knacks.

I didn't know about manually making seams, supports, different infill types, layer heights, speed settings, layer adhesion practices and so on. The last month has been great. @TickTock also provide some help

I just entered the 3D space not too long ago but definitely learned a lot pretty quick.

 

[CTOmaha]

So what is infill?

Infill gives structural integrity, it's this pattern in the inside - you can see it's more dense in the 15% vs 10%.

For further reading:

https://wiki.creality.com/en/software/update-released/Strength/infill

 

[That Beast Mode]

Could it be due to layer height and infill? I'm printing at .20 and 15% infill and it is very strong.

I actually did bump up the infill, I set it to 20% knowing its something that is going to take force, I did not adjust the seam however. The problem is all the force of pulling it relies on that one layer I highlighted before staying in tact. Hence why they put the screw hole there. Both my R and L broke exactly the same way in the same spot.

 

[TickTock]

If you want to and if you can, send a pic of the actual pull handle from the side, I can show you where it

So the flaw is at this layer where it meets the handle - I took the pic off your site just to illustrate it for you, I'm in no way implying yours have the same flaw. However, I suspect the original designer knew it was a weak point as they put a hole for an M3 screw, but even with that, it would need some form of internal nut in the main body of the handle to not come apart.

There *is* an accommodation for a square nut in the handle. Push it in here:

 

[That Beast Mode]

The right way to do it would be to pause the print at that layer height, put in a threaded hot insert and then finish, this way the screw can grab the main body. That would be bullet proof

 

[That Beast Mode]

There *is* an accommodation for a square nut in the handle. Push it in here:

See - that makes a lot of sense.... This would work too. So the original designer did know it was a flaw and made provisions for it.. Nice.

 

[That Beast Mode]

Really same here - learning a lot making an actual functional part vs making little nick knacks.

I didn't know about manually making seams, supports, different infill types, layer heights, speed settings, layer adhesion practices and so on. The last month has been great. @TickTock also provide some help

3d Printing is awesome... So much fun and I love nothing more than making something useful and functional. My escape levers came out awesome, I printed the flat panel in black, but the handle I went with red and I made the emergency writing and arrow in glow in the dark. Looked awesome, just fell apart pretty quickly.

 

[That Beast Mode]

So what is infill?

So if you set it to 100% infill it would be a solid object inside with no hollow sections or voids. People use infill to adjust strength vs materials and time. More infill = more materials, time to print and strength.

 

[TickTock]

A couple more suggestions. @That Beast Mode is quite correct that layer separation is a weakness of 3d prints. I have found, though, that good dry PETG filament with the nozzle temperature set on the high side helps a lot to get a good attachment. That plus printing in an enclosure has resulted in PETG and PCTG parts with very good layer adhesion for me (just as likely to fail across the grain as with it). I did, however, provide the nut and bolt option because I know this is a common issue many face (myself, included).

 

[hemiarch]

So if you set it to 100% infill it would be a solid object inside with no hollow sections or voids. People use infill to adjust strength vs materials and time. More infill = more materials, time to print and strength.

So why not make this 100% inphil?

 

[That Beast Mode]

A couple more suggestions. @That Beast Mode is quite correct that layer separation is a weakness of 3d prints. I have found, though, that good dry PETG filament with the nozzle temperature set on the high side helps a lot to get a good attachment. That plus printing in an enclosure has resulted in PETG and PCTG parts with very good layer adhesion for me (just as likely to fail across the grain as with it). I did, however, provide the nut and bolt option because I know this is a common issue many face (myself, included).

Tick are you the original designer of it?? I have a Bambu P2S so it is an enclosed printer. I just got it like 2 months ago, so all my materials are new - I did however do a drying cycle on the AMS 2 before using it. I didn't mess with nozzle temp tho - what temp do you recommend?

 

[CyberGlow]

A couple more suggestions. @That Beast Mode is quite correct that layer separation is a weakness of 3d prints. I have found, though, that good dry PETG filament with the nozzle temperature set on the high side helps a lot to get a good attachment. That plus printing in an enclosure has resulted in PETG and PCTG parts with very good layer adhesion for me (just as likely to fail across the grain as with it). I did, however, provide the nut and bolt option because I know this is a common issue many face (myself, included).

Some great insight, thanks @TickTock!

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