Powering Accessories Struggles - Don't let this happen to you!

[REDNAVE]

I’m shocked I never noticed the passenger trim accessories were essentially muting that A pillar speaker. I guess I listen to music so loud that I couldn’t even notice.

I’m considering splicing the 10.33” screen power cables directly into the red Acc and black Ground cables of the mirror. The 10.33” screen only has a black and yellow cables coming out of the wire harness. I would try black to black, and Yellow to Red.

Anyone smarter than me have a reason why that’s a bad idea? I’d love to get these two accessories working simultaneously and have little hope a new harness can be made quickly.

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[That Beast Mode]

I’m shocked I never noticed the passenger trim accessories were essentially muting that A pillar speaker. I guess I listen to music so loud that I couldn’t even notice.

I’m considering splicing the 10.33” screen power cables directly into the red Acc and black Ground cables of the mirror. The 10.33” screen only has a black and yellow cables coming out of the wire harness. I would try black to black, and Yellow to Red.

Anyone smarter than me have a reason why that’s a bad idea? I’d love to get these two accessories working simultaneously and have little hope a new harness can be made quickly.

I personally would not start splicing shit together to half ass it, its a Hansshow problem and they should fix it properly instead of offering people 20% refunds. I dont want a refund, I actually like the mirror and would recommend it to others- but not until its fixed properly, this is unacceptable from them.

 

[REDNAVE]

Welp it worked! (Speaker still has no sound though as expected)
But I spliced the BSD light strip and the 10.33” CarPlay screen directly into the 12” digital mirror cable for power. All 3 are working simultaneously now.
so ideally a new harness is made for each accessory for true daisy changing and no loss of power pass through. Or someone makes a splitter for this passenger harness so we can not have to worry about power pass through not making its way through the chain.
crappy I had to do this but glad all 3 are working.

 

[hemiarch]

Welp it worked! (Speaker still has no sound though as expected)
But I spliced the BSD light strip and the 10.33” CarPlay screen directly into the 12” digital mirror cable for power. All 3 are working simultaneously now.
so ideally a new harness is made for each accessory for true daisy changing and no loss of power pass through. Or someone makes a splitter for this passenger harness so we can not have to worry about power pass through not making its way through the chain.
crappy I had to do this but glad all 3 are working.

Interesting about the tweeter. So it didn’t end up being the muffling problem you suspected? You could also just stop messing with the harnesses altogether and power all three and/or any other accessories you might want including the little CarPlay screen thingy using an auxbeam wired to the frunk feed and buck convertor. You’d still need the harness for on/off information and blind spot/indicator information but I’m guessing if you don’t rob power from there, the tweeter might work again.
All you’d need is a single button on the auxbeam you could label cabin accessory power or whatever.

 

[Rippin1Gear]

I watched this video… so why can’t we copy the pins on the front light bar that works with sound to copy the Hansshow harness?

 

[hemiarch]

I watched this video… so why can’t we copy the pins on the front light bar that works with sound to copy the Hansshow harness?

That would be a very logical approach.

 

[Rippin1Gear]

I just published the Light Strip article here : LED Dash Light Strip by Hansshow
and there is a pic of the power connector in question before I installed it if that help, obviously testing it with a continuity tester is what needs to be done but I thought you might want to see it.

TeslaKen, can you confirm what wire pins are different from your working led light bar harness to the Hansshow harness? That would be the simplest fix for all us I believe or am I missing something?

 

[hemiarch]

If it helps anyone, as I found out from my long s92 debacle, there is sufficient power for the mirror available form the little clip attached to the driver side of the inside of the FSD camera housing.
Also, I have the same rainbow led strip that @TeslaKen removes in his video to install the blind spot detector strip. Mine is however not powered off the glovebox usb because that’s heavily tied up with other stuff. Mine runs off a little Amazon usb break-out box attached to the same wires @REDNAVE just tapped into. Works without issue. I also have my fiber optic star lights running off that area. They are attached to the harness that came with my electrochromic skylight.
The skylight itself was very glitchy in that harness though so that’s now on an OBD connector on the drivers side.

Apologies if any of that adds confusion to the situation. Just wanted to add my experience of what works and what doesn’t into the mix as a data point for you all to consider.

 

[TeslaKen]

TeslaKen, can you confirm what wire pins are different from your working led light bar harness to the Hansshow harness? That would be the simplest fix for all us I believe or am I missing something?

Except would that introduce the problem with the light bar harness now messing up the drivers seat sensor and shutting off FSD?

 

[YukonJack]

I've been digging into this and found out some interesting details on the Audio system tech.

Validate all this for yourself if you decide to do any of this.

First the short term fix for this harness issue is going to be DIY as Hansshow gave me the discount but no timeline for a harness replacement.

1. Remove one of the unused pins from (4, 5, or 12) as they are unused. I haven't done this but without a removal tool you'll likely need some thin metal shims to release these - or - carefully use a super small flathead. Here are the pinout diagram to validate: https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0930m/
2. Cut and splice that onto the pin 8 feed that was pulled for the BAT + & ACC splice to the Hansshow power converter.
3. Place that pin back into pin 8 of the of the X0930 male connector. This was the only one left off.

This will provide the pass through need for the tweeter feed to get its digitally multiplexed signal.

The audio system uses a digital network technology developed by Analog Deviced (ADI) called Automotive Audio Bus (A2B). In short its a digitally multiplexed signal overlayed on DC power. Like other systems this tech reduces wiring and costs. The supply going to the A-pillar tweeter must be decoded at the tweeter or somewhere close - I couln't find any reference to where it is.

Hannshow appears to have copied this technique from someone else. There were other suppliers that tapped this connector first. What likely occured is one of these companies was hunting a power tap and found supply on this line and here we are....

I say short term because I don't like the way this was done and don't know if it's degrading anything by pulling more load than intended.

 

[mongo]

This will provide the pass through need for the tweeter feed to get its digitally multiplexed signal.

The audio system uses a digital network technology developed by Analog Deviced (ADI) called Automotive Audio Bus (A2B). In short its a digitally multiplexed signal overlayed on DC power. Like other systems this tech reduces wiring and costs. The supply going to the A-pillar tweeter must be decoded at the tweeter or somewhere close - I couln't find any reference to where it is.

The tweeter is analog, not A2B. It's a two pin speaker and carried over from the Model 3/Y.
A2B (2 data plus ground) is used for the microphones in the seats and A pillars.
The Tweeter part description is confusing because it says "active", however, that refers to it being fed a high pass filtered audio signal versus the "passive" tweeter which has a built in filter capacitor.

Tweeter:

A2B:

 

[That Beast Mode]

I've been digging into this and found out some interesting details on the Audio system tech.

Validate all this for yourself if you decide to do any of this.

First the short term fix for this harness issue is going to be DIY as Hansshow gave me the discount but no timeline for a harness replacement.

1. Remove one of the unused pins from (4, 5, or 12) as they are unused. I haven't done this but without a removal tool you'll likely need some thin metal shims to release these - or - carefully use a super small flathead. Here are the pinout diagram to validate: https://service.tesla.com/docs/Cybertruck/ElectricalReference/prog-242/connector/x0930m/
2. Cut and splice that onto the pin 8 feed that was pulled for the BAT + & ACC splice to the Hansshow power converter.
3. Place that pin back into pin 8 of the of the X0930 male connector. This was the only one left off.

This will provide the pass through need for the tweeter feed to get its digitally multiplexed signal.

The audio system uses a digital network technology developed by Analog Deviced (ADI) called Automotive Audio Bus (A2B). In short its a digitally multiplexed signal overlayed on DC power. Like other systems this tech reduces wiring and costs. The supply going to the A-pillar tweeter must be decoded at the tweeter or somewhere close - I couln't find any reference to where it is.

Hannshow appears to have copied this technique from someone else. There were other suppliers that tapped this connector first. What likely occured is one of these companies was hunting a power tap and found supply on this line and here we are....

I say short term because I don't like the way this was done and don't know if it's degrading anything by pulling more load than intended.

I appreciate the effort of trying to come up with a creative solution, but I really don't think we should have to. I'm very hesitant to mess with splicing wires on an EV and risk blowing something else out, especially when I paid full price for a product that has an obvious flaw. They can say it's a solder joint on the speaker, but ALL of us can't be wrong. Hansshow needs to have a new harness and send it out to their customers to fix this for them. I'm sure they'll fight it because it cuts into profits but it's the right thing to do.

 

[mongo]

I appreciate the effort of trying to come up with a creative solution, but I really don't think we should have to. I'm very hesitant to mess with splicing wires on an EV and risk blowing something else out, especially when I paid full price for a product that has an obvious flaw. They can say it's a solder joint on the speaker, but ALL of us can't be wrong. Hansshow needs to have a new harness and send it out to their customers to fix this for them. I'm sure they'll fight it because it cuts into profits but it's the right thing to do.

Though, by plugging in their (obviously incorrect) harness, you are splicing wires on an EV and risking blowing something up. Even if properly done, you are adding loads to the vehicle that were not designed for.

 

[That Beast Mode]

Though, by plugging in their (obviously incorrect) harness, you are splicing wires on an EV and risking blowing something up. Even if properly done, you are adding loads to the vehicle that were not designed for.

This is very true. To me it's not quite as risky as splicing things together (with wire cutters and electrical tape) though, one wrong splice and you could burn something out. I would hope and assume that these things were tested and designed to work as intended from the company and people smarter with this stuff than me. Given the issues everyone seems to be having - that may not be the case however.

 

[hemiarch]

Though, by plugging in their (obviously incorrect) harness, you are splicing wires on an EV and risking blowing something up. Even if properly done, you are adding loads to the vehicle that were not designed for.

Thats true. The more I read these threads the more I understand that the install methods these companies recommend are really just an irresponsible shortcut. All this shit should be running off the frunk feed with a buck converter and/or switch like an auxbeam if there are multiple items that need the ability to be switched on/off separately.
That’s what the Tesla engineers likely intended when they gave us access to 800w of auxiliary low voltage power.

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