You could email them and ask when the new updated harness will be available to see what reply you get.
I guess I'm down a speaker since I'm running the latest Hansshow rearview mirror. Should they have a harness with passthrough power? Absolutely.
Very nice work. Could you show with a marking of some sort where the pass through outlet is? Where did you wire the AC side of the converter? Also, what drove the choice for that specific convertor over the 300-400w ones? Size?I’ve completed a 12V DC supply solution that works for me.
I routed a 12VDC supply line to the passenger foot well for the Hansshow V2 mirror and one behind the screen for a radar detector.
Works perfectly with “Enable Cabin Outlets on Entry ” selected. The power comes on when you enter the vehicle and goes off when you exit.
Fairly easy project that solves the 12V DC supply issue. Front console panel pops off easy to give you access to run a line to the 120VAC outlet. Note that the power to the outlet is available, orange wires, but I didn’t want to mess with splicing those and found a nice pass through outlet that works fine. The console bin is made of a soft rubber but I still added a grommet to make it look neat running from the outlet.
I moved the radar detector from a mirror mount to just above the screen. This doesn’t obstruct the view out the windscreen at all. I posted the link to the mount I used.
I cut the Hansshow harness off and spliced the USB-C power lines to the 12VDC supply line. In the event I add anything new I have a small 4 line fuse box I can add here for future upgrades.
Parts for reference:
Pass through outlet: Cable Matters 2-Pack 2 Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DMRWYX8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12 VDC Supply: LED Driver 12V 100W 8.3A Slim LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWWM7DS5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Radar Mount: Bartallama3D Radar Holder for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJZYF7XX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've reviewed this and first thing to say is "Good Job" in finding a solution that works for you. Looking at how you've created this my biggest question is getting power from the center console down below where the convertor is to the passenger footwell where the harnesses are for various items needing 12v power such as front bumper light bar, rear view mirror display, LED dash light strip and I guess in your case the radar detector?I’ve completed a 12V DC supply solution that works for me.
I routed a 12VDC supply line to the passenger foot well for the Hansshow V2 mirror and one behind the screen for a radar detector.
Works perfectly with “Enable Cabin Outlets on Entry ” selected. The power comes on when you enter the vehicle and goes off when you exit.
Fairly easy project that solves the 12V DC supply issue. Front console panel pops off easy to give you access to run a line to the 120VAC outlet. Note that the power to the outlet is available, orange wires, but I didn’t want to mess with splicing those and found a nice pass through outlet that works fine. The console bin is made of a soft rubber but I still added a grommet to make it look neat running from the outlet.
I moved the radar detector from a mirror mount to just above the screen. This doesn’t obstruct the view out the windscreen at all. I posted the link to the mount I used.
I cut the Hansshow harness off and spliced the USB-C power lines to the 12VDC supply line. In the event I add anything new I have a small 4 line fuse box I can add here for future upgrades.
Parts for reference:
Pass through outlet: Cable Matters 2-Pack 2 Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DMRWYX8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12 VDC Supply: LED Driver 12V 100W 8.3A Slim LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWWM7DS5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Radar Mount: Bartallama3D Radar Holder for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJZYF7XX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is brilliant Jack. I’m just not fully understanding where the wires going into the 120v side of that convertor are coming from.Where to cut the Hansshow harness: Follow the USB-C plug down past the small box (12V to 5V Converter) and you will see they have the wires already labeled. Three wires are loose and unbundled near the end. Cut and Tie both the ACC(yellow)and Power(red) together - twist those together and use a butt splice crimp to tie that to the 12VDC positive. Tie the GND(black) wire to ground. I ran two sets of 12VDC supply lines from the converter - both wrapped in felt tape to match the other harnesses. The pass through spot I used is outlined in the red circle. There is just enough room here to pass the wire through neatly.
There is enough room to run the wire up the center divider. You can tuck it in under the plastic molding then run it up under the rug to the right foot well. I spliced the Hansshow mirror at the footwell location like it was originally intended.
I bought this 100W supply a while back after I believe EVDave posted it in one of his videos. 8 Amps is plenty but there is plenty of room if you needed to go larger.
As an FYI I did find in the schematics reference to 12V DC Power. The MOC outputs power for the Radio tuner. Not sure how much excess capacity there is and didn’t wan’t to cut into any harnesses. Maybe Hansshow will read this and find a better place to tap. But you can look at X-2408-1 (VCC Power) and X-2408-4 (Ground). Also at X-0806-1 (12V Power) and X-0806-2 (Ground).
Chopped off pass through power cord in the first photo:
I’ve completed a 12V DC supply solution that works for me.
I routed a 12VDC supply line to the passenger foot well for the Hansshow V2 mirror and one behind the screen for a radar detector.
Works perfectly with “Enable Cabin Outlets on Entry ” selected. The power comes on when you enter the vehicle and goes off when you exit.
Fairly easy project that solves the 12V DC supply issue. Front console panel pops off easy to give you access to run a line to the 120VAC outlet. Note that the power to the outlet is available, orange wires, but I didn’t want to mess with splicing those and found a nice pass through outlet that works fine. The console bin is made of a soft rubber but I still added a grommet to make it look neat running from the outlet.
I moved the radar detector from a mirror mount to just above the screen. This doesn’t obstruct the view out the windscreen at all. I posted the link to the mount I used.
I cut the Hansshow harness off and spliced the USB-C power lines to the 12VDC supply line. In the event I add anything new I have a small 4 line fuse box I can add here for future upgrades.
Parts for reference:
Pass through outlet: Cable Matters 2-Pack 2 Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DMRWYX8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12 VDC Supply: LED Driver 12V 100W 8.3A Slim LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWWM7DS5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Radar Mount: Bartallama3D Radar Holder for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJZYF7XX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thanks. Was thinking of maybe reproducing this with the input plug of this thing I have plugged up to the center console 120v socket
Thank you. Yes I saw where you tapped through to get the plug into the center console and then the wires coming from the plug to the convertor, I was more wondering about the wires coming from the convertor to the rear view mirror and/or other accessories. I suspected that perhaps you ran in under the plastic in front of the center console then up under the dash and over to the passenger footwell. With respect to the Hansshow harness once you cut the wires and attached them to the wires coming from the convertor, was there any need for the Hansshow harness anymore or did you pitch it? I was thinking of running the 12v DC power from the convertor to the footwell and attaching it to some sort of distribution block with black and red pins that I could then attach whatever accessories I wanted there assuming I don't go above 100w which I believe to be unlikely with these electronic devices we are discussing.Where to cut the Hansshow harness: Follow the USB-C plug down past the small box (12V to 5V Converter) and you will see they have the wires already labeled. Three wires are loose and unbundled near the end. Cut and Tie both the ACC(yellow)and Power(red) together - twist those together and use a butt splice crimp to tie that to the 12VDC positive. Tie the GND(black) wire to ground. I ran two sets of 12VDC supply lines from the converter - both wrapped in felt tape to match the other harnesses. The pass through spot I used is outlined in the red circle. There is just enough room here to pass the wire through neatly.
There is enough room to run the wire up the center divider. You can tuck it in under the plastic molding then run it up under the rug to the right foot well. I spliced the Hansshow mirror at the footwell location like it was originally intended.
I bought this 100W supply a while back after I believe EVDave posted it in one of his videos. 8 Amps is plenty but there is plenty of room if you needed to go larger.
As an FYI I did find in the schematics reference to 12V DC Power. The MOC outputs power for the Radio tuner. Not sure how much excess capacity there is and didn’t wan’t to cut into any harnesses. Maybe Hansshow will read this and find a better place to tap. But you can look at X-2408-1 (VCC Power) and X-2408-4 (Ground). Also at X-0806-1 (12V Power) and X-0806-2 (Ground).
If I do this install as well I will shoot video and write up an article. I guess I need to start by ordering the parts.
That's funny. Both Hansshow and Teslasy told me they had the other device (mirror or dashscreen) and if I wanted to buy their version "it would work". Obviously, I am passed it because I figured out a solution that worked and truthfully, after running the wires I don't feel like messing with it again.
I was considering the first option too and decided on your second option. I saw several threads where people using the power overhead ran into interference problems related to FSD, etc. I decided I didn't want to take the risk with anything like that.