hemiarch

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Understood. The river 2 pro is probably overkill for my usage, but I think I would like to use the power from the frunk supply for a cleaner install. I'll use the battery setup you describe but will mount the buck converter in space behind the frunk and run a lead for the battery into the cabin. I've seen things that state there is a grommet in the firewall to allow access, but I think your pictures showed going via the door jamb. Any reason why?
No. I went through the grommet too

Tesla Cybertruck Installed CyberGear Refrigerator (review video added) IMG_6679

there are both an ac and dc cable there that are fed by the frunk power station which is powered by the frunk feed.
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Oh I'm blind. That looked like a door hinge, didn't pay attention!!!

Thanks again for all your help. You're an awesome member . . .


No. I went through the grommet too

IMG_6679.webp

there are both an ac and dc cable there that are fed by the frunk power station which is powered by the frunk feed.
 

pkauf01

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So the fridge I was taking about is sold by multiple of the purveyors of Chinese goodies.
It’s the 18l center console fridge but this works for any type of fridge.
Here is an example:
https://a.co/d/6sDT9ma
I like shopping through Amazon with these kind of guys because it adds a crease of less painful if you want to return for any reason but get the best deal you can find on one.
I’ve learned there is a signicant margin made on them so don’t feel like anyone is doing you a favor.
I stand behind the idea that there isn’t a single good reason to run the fridge on ac power like the marketers want but I’ve since found a more logical way to run this thing so I’ll start with that.
I bought one of these batteries:
https://a.co/d/d3gt6LH
And a basic 12 v fridge cable like this but ideally with some kind of locking plug: I just cut one off and added a locking plug to mine.:
https://a.co/d/b7WUVog
Anyway, when you remove the little black plastic “power section” of the fridge, there are three screws in it and when you open those you realize they just have an unnecessary power brick in there to run the dc fridge off of AC.
the battery linked above is small enough to install in that little housing but there is no point, I just left mine off because where it sits is such that you have to move the seat all the way back to even see it and access it. It’s invisible, breaths better and is easier to access without the plastic cover.
So this battery sits in the tunnel behind the fridge and powers the fridge but can accept usb-c charge. So, you just plug into either the rear or center console usb-c and then check the “keep aux power on” box in your UI. Presto…fridge that runs 24hrs a day without burning massive mileage off your truck.

IMG_6674.webp


IMG_6677.webp


IMG_6678.webp


IMG_6675.webp

Been running it like this for several months and it’s flawless. Never turns off. Car can still sleep.
In my prior setup I ran the fridge off the dc out of an Ecoflow river 2 pro that was fed off the frunk feed in the frunk.
I just ran a DC fridge cable into the cabin to do this.
happier with my current solution honestly.
takes zero footprint. That battery sits somewhere that was dead space anyway after installing the fridge.
A frunk battery power bank is hella useful though. Still recommend it.
Also, didn't realize the one on amazon was the same as the one on Cyber Gear. Totally agree, rather get from Amazon so if there is an issue. Thanks again for all the great info!
 

pkauf01

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Thanks man
Got the fridge, frunk is out, and I have a question. The grommet you used in the door jamb - where does that hole lead to? Where to I get to the inside the cabin to pull the wire down to the fridge?
 


hemiarch

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Got the fridge, frunk is out, and I have a question. The grommet you used in the door jamb - where does that hole lead to? Where to I get to the inside the cabin to pull the wire down to the fridge?
The grommet outside the sheetmetal leads t another hole on the inside of the sheet metal.
my friend J and I both did ours around the same time and he does much better job than me of explaining it.
here is a link to the thread
https://www.cybertruckownersclub.co...-cooler-fridge-refrigerator-dc-install.43783/
@Leo Snow also has a good method but all I know how to do for sure is this approach.
 

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Got everything installed, including your suggestion on running the power from the Frunk and using the BougeRV Portable Power Station for Fridge . . . question though. Have you had any issues with it just shutting off? I'm running it 24x7 (doesn't draw much battery) and twice it has just shut off. This time, it's like there is no power. I'll have to take it out tomorrow to see what the issue is, but was curious if you'd had any issues with your setup. The first time I think it was just caused by the update killing the power switch to the Frunk accessory power. IT was off, this time, power is on, but fridge is off. **EDIT** - After going back and reading your posts, are you directly feeding the BougeRV battery via the 48V from the frunk or are you going through a 48V to 12V converter ? I show the BougeRV appears to only go up to 32V so I did it with a converter. Is that wrong?
 
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hemiarch

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No. You’re not doing it wrong. I was feeding the bouge rv battery off one of the rear usb-c’s in the cabin and leaving the “leave aux power on”checked.
I’ve also been experimenting with running it (the fridge) directly off the frunk feed with a converter to 12v.
Your battery should stay on with just a usb-c input .
If you’ve run the frunk feed back there you probably don’t need the battery which was @Leo Snow ’s point in his excellent video.
 

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No. You’re not doing it wrong. I was feeding the bouge rv battery off one of the rear usb-c’s in the cabin and leaving the “leave aux power on”checked.
I’ve also been experimenting with running it (the fridge) directly off the frunk feed with a converter to 12v.
Your battery should stay on with just a usb-c input .
If you’ve run the frunk feed back there you probably don’t need the battery which was @Leo Snow ’s point in his excellent video.
Yeah, I think I am returning the Battery and just going to connect it straight since I already have the 48V - 12V buck converter installed in the frunk . . . I have noticed the battery was getting quite warm and it's probably better just to use the CT's battery to keep it running. And I'll save about 200.00 . . . Glad I ordered from amazon. :) Thanks again for all the help!
 

hemiarch

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Yeah, I think I am returning the Battery and just going to connect it straight since I already have the 48V - 12V buck converter installed in the frunk . . . I have noticed the battery was getting quite warm and it's probably better just to use the CT's battery to keep it running. And I'll save about 200.00 . . . Glad I ordered from amazon. :) Thanks again for all the help!
Good plan. Sorry if my advice made you make an unnecessary purchase. It’s the solution I was using too but now have a better one
 


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Good plan. Sorry if my advice made you make an unnecessary purchase. It’s the solution I was using too but now have a better one
Oh, no worries at all. I am EXTREMELY happy I didn't connect it back inside, this way it always stays on via the Frunk run, and I can manually kill it via the touch screen when I don't want the power drain. Been watching, and the battery drain is minimal and it's nice to always have cold drinks on trips, even local! Thanks again for all the help!
 

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Oh, no worries at all. I am EXTREMELY happy I didn't connect it back inside, this way it always stays on via the Frunk run, and I can manually kill it via the touch screen when I don't want the power drain. Been watching, and the battery drain is minimal and it's nice to always have cold drinks on trips, even local! Thanks again for all the help!
Most welcome. I love this community. It’s become my hobby.
 

pkauf01

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Most welcome. I love this community. It’s become my hobby.
Just a heads up to all . . . I did remove the battery setup this morning and hard wired into my fridge via the DC 12v feed from the Buck Converter in the Frunk. Interesting, my PLA stand that I had 3D printed had melted (somewhat) from the heat of the battery. :eek: So definitely happy I removed this from the circuit. PLA is pretty susceptible to heat (will start deforming at about 140 degrees) so it's not like it was on fire, but does cement the point that it was generating some unwanted heat. See picture below.
Tesla Cybertruck Installed CyberGear Refrigerator (review video added) 1763580661350-22
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