Wheel/tire combos that enhance CT performance?

[hemiarch]

Lots and lots of options for wheels and tires and they all of course have pros and cons depending on what and where you drive, but are also steeped in marketing BS. There is also of course the matter of taste but let’s leave aesthetics out of this discussion for the moment.
Let’s just say for arguments sake, that the most common use case for most of us is largely commuting on both in-town roads and freeways with occasional off-road use.

If you have put wheels/tires/caps on your truck that are a legit performance enhancement over oem, can you please share?

I’m talking, significant decrease in total unsprung weight, measurable range increase, substantial improvement in NVH/comfort, significantly better durability or substantial reduction in total operating costs compared to the factory wheels with oem AT or AS tires. That sort of thing.

Would love to hear from actual users and not people trying to sell something. If something has worked really well for you or you feel like you made a poor decision and kind of wish you hadn’t, please contribute.

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[Scrambler]

Running Wildpeak AT4W's on UP's -03 beadlock wheels. About 2k miles in. Heavy wheel and tire combo, so much so you can feel the heft on takeoff from stand still. Not as sprightly as the stock wheels and tires. It does feel good on pavement still however, no hum or vibration. Obviously better traction offroad, grips confidently on dirt both wet and dry conditions (was running them around 25psi). Would blast through so fast through the dirt sometimes I would inadvertantly disengage offroad mode .

Obvious con is the range hit. On stock wheels and tires my effiency numbers was around 400-450 Wh/mi , compared to now 500-600 Wh/mi ! Definitely not practical as I am primarily a city slicker / weekend warrior, but Im happy with the decision. I also kept the stock stuff for swap outs if Im going on roadtrips.

 

[hemiarch]

Running Wildpeak AT4W's on UP's -03 beadlock wheels. About 2k miles in. Heavy wheel and tire combo, so much so you can feel the heft on takeoff from stand still. Not as sprightly as the stock wheels and tires. It does feel good on pavement still however, no hum or vibration. Obviously better traction offroad, grips confidently on dirt both wet and dry conditions (was running them around 25psi). Would blast through so fast through the dirt sometimes I would inadvertantly disengage offroad mode .

Obvious con is the range hit. On stock wheels and tires my effiency numbers was around 400-450 Wh/mi , compared to now 500-600 Wh/mi ! Definitely not practical as I am primarily a city slicker / weekend warrior, but Im happy with the decision. I also kept the stock stuff for swap outs if Im going on roadtrips.

Surprised at the magnitude of the range hit. I understand the theoretical benefits of the beadlocks off-road, is it easy to appreciate when you drive that way? With 25psi?
feel pretty different?

 

[J.Graham]

Subscribed! Curious to hear updates from the member who put the 36.5’s on, as well as the members who are running the Michelins…

 

[Scrambler]

Surprised at the magnitude of the range hit. I understand the theoretical benefits of the beadlocks off-road, is it easy to appreciate when you drive that way? With 25psi?
feel pretty different?

I was surprised too! Regarding the beadlocks, I couldn't tell you regarding the tire locking ability as I've never run PSI levels that low on a standard rim or ever had a tire slip off before, and frankly dont want to experience it especially out in wilderness. I can say that in my limited experience with doing light-moderate difficulty trails that the ride has been a blast so far. I do intend to push it harder to see what it's really capable of in the future especially now that Im also carrying a full sized spare as a fail safe.

 

[hemiarch]

Has anybody legitimately increased the range of the truck with a wheel and tire swap or addition of some kind of cap?
With the exception of going from AT to AS which is a given.

 

[hemiarch]

Crickets.
I guess oem wheels are optimum?

 

[henchman24]

Optimum is in the eye of the beholder. Tesla engineered for the widest use case, while keeping costs down. As people get to the extremes, you're likely to find some benefits. If you go for a much lighter, forged wheel... it will smooth out the ride, gain a bit of efficiency in start/stop situations, and probably handle a bit better (though pushing this truck to that limit will absolutely destroy tires). Going to a heavy beadlock will allow you to air down and put some ultra aggressive tires to handle off-road situations a lot better. Same goes for tires... you could improve handling dramatically by going to a slick with a forged 20" wheel. Or going to extreme off road tires like KM3s are likely to get you far more places. If your off road is a county dirt road and most time is spent in town or on the highway (like 90++% of people)... the factory AS setup is probably the best compromise there is.

In my case, I got the core wheels with AS tires. Knowing that the AT tires were not going to fit my use case, I might as well put those funds to better tires. Within 500mi I swapped the factory Pirelli's for Nokian Outpost NATs. These are triple peak rated all terrains with about 80% more tread depth, higher load rating, and kevlar banded tires compared to the OEM AT. Basically far superior AT tires than the factory has. My use has a lot of dirt roads that are closer to 4x4 trails with sharp rocks. I've punctured a number of tires prior, so needed something that could withstand that punishment... while still being able to drive nicely on the highway. They represented a good compromise for me. Off-road and in snow they are a far superior tire to my friend who has a CB with AT tires. They will last longer. They are MUCH lighter (more on that in a sec). Compared to the AS, I maybe lost ~3% efficiency (likely better than OEM AT, lifetime average of 427 wh/mi and I drive 80+ on the highway for well over half the miles). I didn't have the AS on long enough to say that for sure.

On the lighter, one of the reasons I chose that specific tire is they are one of the lightest AT in the 35" size. ~46lbs. That is actually lighter than the OEM AS tire by ~2lbs, and it is very noticeable. On washboard roads, there is much less bouncing around and the suspension stays a lot more planted. AT tires also tend to have squishier tread, so in conjunction with the weight, the ride is actually smoother too. It immediately felt more refined in that manner (it will roll over the tread if you push it on a canyon road though). Going lighter is one of the best things you can do for suspension. It makes it more compliant, planted, and even reduces wear.

The triple peak rating was key for me too. I drive in snow and icy conditions a lot. I have a cabin at 11,000' deep in the mountains, and drive through Wyoming and Colorado a lot through the winter. Snow and ice is a big part of my life for ~5 months a year. Neither factory tire is good in snow/ice. They simply aren't designed around it. If you face those conditions regularly, there are better 'engineered' options with the proper compounds and siping. Anybody that experiences that weather with regularity, should change tires. It is much safer, especially with the weight we are dragging around.

I probably won't swap from the factory wheels unless I damage one off road as I just wouldn't want to spend the money (and core wheels are pretty light at around 32lbs each). A 20x9 forged <30lb wheel would be my replacement though. Shaving off an extra ~2lbs per wheel would make a pretty dramatic difference and forged would be a lot stronger. The benefit isn't worth the cost (to me) until there is damage though.

In the end, most people buy wheels and tires for looks. Which isn't an engineering benefit, but an enjoyment one. If you enjoy the truck more, it tends to be 'worth' it.

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