Camp mode with CPAP machine - roof power supply tap, 48V to 24V converter, CPAP shelf, Molle panel.

[Eyesore]

I like to camp in the back of my Cybertruck, and my CPAP machine gets in the way. Drawing power from the 110V outlet using a power supply is inefficient.

This is what I have in my Amazon cart:

The barrel connector is what my Resmed Airsense 10 needs for a 24V, 3.75A (90W) connection.

My plan is to mount the shelf to a molle panel on the side of the truck bed, and put a connector on the roof tap. When setting up camp, get 48V power from the connector to the 48V to 24V buck converter attached to the shelf. I'm assuming when I put the vehicle in camp mode, I can leave the roof tap power on.

It just occurred to me that routing the 48v power feed into the back while allowing the tonneau cover to close will be a challenge. On solution is just use a long 48v cord and route along the bed and up in the gap at the bottom of the tailgate. It is only needed when camping, so OK to run the cord along the outside.

Any suggestions?

-Scott.

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[Eyesore]

I think I'll run a permanently connected wire from the roof power tap under the sail applique and into a 48V power jack bulkhead connector I add to the side of the bed.

 

[Eyesore]

I think I'll run a permanently connected wire from the roof power tap under the sail applique and into a 48V power jack bulkhead connector I add to the side of the bed.

I've decided not to try to power my CPAP from the 48V roof tap. I can't get the the roof tap to stay on unless I leave the climate control on (camping mode) or the inverter on (outlets always on). This defeats the purpose of reducing the demand on the truck battery to run the CPAP.

Cybertent mode does not leave the roof tap powered.

I may try an e-bike battery instead.

However, I have not yet been able to get my ResMed Airsense 10 to wake up on a 24V DC battery power supply. It seems the Airsense needs to see a specific voltage other than 24V on the center pin of the connector.

This post says the center pin needs 3.3V, with 24V across the outside to the inside of the barrel connector.
I measure 118 mV on the center pin of my OEM power supply.

-Scott.

 

[JohnRougeux]

So just plugging into the 110outlet in The bed doesn’t provide the power for your cpap machine? I wonder why not? They talk about being able to run your house off the outlets…
sorry, your posts went over my head ?

 

[Raptor370]

I am curious. Plan on camping with my CPAP this summer. I use a small Ecoflow battery to power it now that has around 700 watts and it lasts all night. Barely. I figured it would eat up 1% of the truck battery a night or less. Curious how much more efficient it would be run off of the 48v.

 

[Eyesore]

I am curious. Plan on camping with my CPAP this summer. I use a small Ecoflow battery to power it now that has around 700 watts and it lasts all night. Barely. I figured it would eat up 1% of the truck battery a night or less. Curious how much more efficient it would be run off of the 48v.

The 2025 Spring Update (version 2025.14) includes a feature called "Accessory Power" for other Tesla vehicles (S, 3, X, and Y), which re-enables 12V sockets and USB ports to stay powered when when the vehicle is parked and unoccupied, without needing Camp Mode. If the 48V roof tap remains enabled as well, I may revisit this project.

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

I like to camp in the back of my Cybertruck, and my CPAP machine gets in the way. Drawing power from the 110V outlet using a power supply is inefficient.

This is what I have in my Amazon cart:

The barrel connector is what my Resmed Airsense 10 needs for a 24V, 3.75A (90W) connection.

My plan is to mount the shelf to a molle panel on the side of the truck bed, and put a connector on the roof tap. When setting up camp, get 48V power from the connector to the 48V to 24V buck converter attached to the shelf. I'm assuming when I put the vehicle in camp mode, I can leave the roof tap power on.

It just occurred to me that routing the 48v power feed into the back while allowing the tonneau cover to close will be a challenge. On solution is just use a long 48v cord and route along the bed and up in the gap at the bottom of the tailgate. It is only needed when camping, so OK to run the cord along the outside.

Any suggestions?

-Scott.

Hi, Scott;

I think it sounds like a great plan.

You can route a cable from your rooftop 48v feed along the trough covered by the plastic cover/appliqué into your truck bed emerging beneath your tonneau cover. I used the following XT60 cable and routed it by clipping off the connector on the bed-side end, routing the cable into the truck bed from the rooftop feed, and then I soldered the connector back on and heat shrinked the solder joints.

Just ensure that the cable is located out of the way of the moving tonneau so that the tonneau does not abrade your cable.

If you take off the rooftop appliqué and follow the channel you’ll see pretty immediately where to route your wires.

Best,

-Jay

https://a.co/d/b2ZytP0

 

[hemiarch]

The 2025 Spring Update (version 2025.14) includes a feature called "Accessory Power" for other Tesla vehicles (S, 3, X, and Y), which re-enables 12V sockets and USB ports to stay powered when when the vehicle is parked and unoccupied, without needing Camp Mode. If the 48V roof tap remains enabled as well, I may revisit this project.

That is amazing. Been waiting some time for the to bring that back to the model x. Is that an update that’s already out or are we still waiting on it?

 

[dorylee]

I've tried the dcdc converter for lighting accessories - one thing I can tell you is the cybertruck 48v system doesn't like it. I need to constantly reset .... ended up going with native 48V lights option from @tsportline and @Mars Adventure Gear

 

[CT_AZ_4x4]

I've tried the dcdc converter for lighting accessories - one thing I can tell you is the cybertruck 48v system doesn't like it. I need to constantly reset .... [/USER]

Your buck converter had presented a problem. It could be that it was drawing more than 400 watts, or that it was shorting out, or that it was defective. I use buck converters of the type listed by OP all the time and my CT has had zero issues with them. He should have zero problems with his as well as it draws much less than 400 watts….

 

[dorylee]

Your buck converter had presented a problem. It could be that it was drawing more than 400 watts, or that it was shorting out, or that it was defective. I use buck converters of the type listed by OP all the time and my CT has had zero issues with them. He should have zero problems with his as well as it draws much less than 400 watts….

possible. one thing I found is the rated power spec on these devices is ... always exaggerated. I probably was getting too close to the rated power.

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