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?? It makes no sense to DC bias a speaker. It is, at its root, a coil. And what happens when you put a DC voltage into a coil of wire? Lots of current!

The heat is transferred from Point_A (fridge) to Point_B (air) to Point_C (stainless). You cannot simply ignore Point_B. Heat transfer is a 3D flux of course, but you can model it as a 2D resistor network (which we do in electronics all the time). So "Point_B" (so to speak) is a resistance...

But don't you have to include the air between the fridge and the frunk? Your napkin analysis assumes (I believe) that the heat is directly transferred from the fridge to the stainless, but it isn't. Maybe someone can set this up on ICEPAK! :)

How do you know what gauge wire the electrician used? How do you know what breaker he used? How do you know what the electrician did from the L1/L2/neutral drop to the 120VAC outlet? But whatever (was only replying to Mongo in the first place, who's an even keel sort). Think as you wish.

When I was receiving bids for my condo association to have our parking garage wired for EVs, I checked a handful of chargers -- they were all L1/L2/GFI. Although the Ford did have neutral listed as "optional." I did end up talking the electrician who took our bid into wiring neutral also (his...

Right. Got that part. I was referring more to the "America hasn't had 110 or 220 for decades" part. Certainly plenty out there have their EV charger at 208V like mine (and yes, I measured it). And if they do, aint nothing wrong with their port and it doesn't mean it's "decades" old. If you're...

At my condominium (built 2008), my EV charger plug is a 208Y circuit drop. [i.e. 208V, from a 3-phase system where L1 and L2 are 120 degrees separated. Not everyone has a split-phase 240 residential ckt.]